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I'm getting the engine ready to replace the valve seals. The engine is not original but it is stamped as a '68, so far so good. The heads, on the other hand, are a different story. Both are stamped "302", one is dated 0J30 (September 30, 1970), and the other is dated 1K30 (October 30, 1971)...

Trial and error may be your best route. Do you have an old speaker you can use to check each wire?

This car was on ebay back in 2016 with an asking price of $53,000, then it was for sale at Streetside Classics for a long time in 2017 with an asking price of $47,000. Attached is the Marti Report.

The travel ban is my biggest issue. Need to go to Modesto, Bakersfield, and Fresno. I may just drive there, if that's allowed.

They are used on cars with direct injection to keep oil from caking the backside of the valves. They aren’t really needed on our cars because the fuel flowing past the intake valves washes the valves and keeps them somewhat clean. I’d use one just to not burn all that oil.

Have any of you used an oil catch can on your classic car? They install between the PCV valve and the carb, and catch the blow-by oil before it goes back into the cylinders.

It was on eBay in February and bid up to $20,320. From a different seller. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F164090749254

Personally I think adding white hood stripes to a car with a white top and white side stripes may be a little too much white. But that opinion is worth what you paid for it.

What color GT/CS stripes are you using?

I have a rebuilt 2100 sitting on a shelf but it’s a 1.02, which may be a little small. A 1.21 would probably work better. What was the stock carb? Hmmm, I just looked it up. A '68 C-code apparently came with a 2100 using a 1.08 venturi and 48 jets. I may have a set of 1.08s in my parts bin...

Marty, I can't figure out what's going on behind the panel. I'll check it out in the next couple weeks and fix it one way or another. Another good surprise is that the engine is a '66/'67 block instead of a '77. That saves a lot of work and money. Old cars are like a box of chocolates...…..

So far I'm quite happy with it. It's running much better after the tune up. I've noticed a couple surprises, like how the rear end makes some clunking noises but it's a locker so I don't know if the clunking is normal for those. I'm also going to have a bit of a challenge with the gas cap...

Neil and Rob, I received the parts you shipped. Thanks for you generosity, the parts are perfect.

I think I figured out why this car was so low on power. The Autolite 42 spark plugs were gapped at .40, the points were gapped at .04, and the vacuum advance was attached to the rear of the intake manifold. There was also what looks like mud in the distributor cap. I haven't even gotten to...

Marty, Are you familiar with this one? https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2020/03/15/hemmings-find-of-the-day-1968-ford-mustang-california-special/ "Unrestored 2018 MCA Grand National Gold winning GT/CS is available."

This car is up for auction at Mecum Houston (if the auction goes forward). it's Lot T41, which is Thursday, April 2nd. https://www.mecum.com/lots/HA0420-412321/1968-ford-mustang-gtcs/ The car sold at the 2019 Mecum Houston auction for a total of $34,650 including the buyer's premium. It...

On second thought I'd probably use PVC pipe. It's easier to cut and bevel.

I like Cragars.

This seems to be a reasonable price for this car. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/160319144941974/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Ford-Mustang-GT-CS-GT-CS-CALIFORNIA-SPECIAL/164074518036?hash=item26339a7614:g:IeIAAOSwIM5eR0wF&vxp=mtr I'll try to post photos later.

The tires on this car are around 11 years old so I'll eventually need to change them. When that happens I'll also change the wheels to 15" or 16". I think certain wheels look best on certain color cars. Which wheels do you think will look best on this car? - 10 spokes - Chrome Styled Steel -...