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Saddest part of the chase scene is in reality the Charger ran rings around the Mustang with less modification... Hooray for Hollywood! :smile: Love my Stangs, but given the pick of the two in the chase scene... I'd take the R/T 440... and I own two S codes! :eek: From...

Yep, they were about $90...

A handful of parts are repro'd for 68's. The door and handle, the shift plate, the rear lamp lens, some wiring and a few other minor bits, and only recently the once-impossible-to-find longer radio knobs, but the bulk of the parts are not available. The only difference in the base for AC and...

close up of what I believe to be an OEM lid....

Heard of them yes. Bought from them no. Looking at them as well as I need '68 front shelby glass. Have heard both good and bad about most other vendors. Be interested in any replies as a local source here in Oz said they bought '67 glass from Branda and it was unuseable. (not sure which OEM...

Tony Branda sells the pedestals and mounting parts, with a pair of Ford/Shelby diagrams showing the pedestal install and the cutout locations for the mounting. Sounds like your wires have been messed with if the two are different. or the casing has just been split off one. IIRC should be two...

I'd suggest considering selling it and buying a 68! Many different parts, I'm not even sure if the base is the same, it is a differnt part number, not sure how much it was altered. The radio faceplate/door/storage area, top plate and probably other parts are very different...

Best way to remove paint for repair and prep? Thinking blasting is out for sure, grinding too and it seems you could screw up pretty fast, and not sure if chemical strippers will hurt it...??? Some special fiberglass goop?

OEM for the same price as repro looks good to me. Doesn't look like it would need much more work than a repro, maybe less. The wires look like they may be for a trunk light. Hard to tell, but in one shot it kinda almost looks like one on the right hand side of the lip at the rear...

Condition, cost?

Well... I've got 2 S codes, but a third is not out of the question.... in addition to the new C GTCS.... :smile:

Hopefully not against the rules to mention another site. The S code forum went off line for a long while as the owner shipped himself and family cross country. It is back on line at: http://www.scodemustang.com/forums/index.php

FAM indicates all but black got the pinch welds painted...

Be interested in pics of your interior, once you figure it out. Looking into the exact same color scheme for a project I am looking into.... seen many variations on the "Ivy Gold" 68 interior...

Jeff, NPD notes a few Motorcraft/Gabriel shocks they sell as very close, as you note paint SGB, they note thread pitch as an issue... opinon?

Not 100% sure, but believe it was stamped into the steel before forming the panels. Replicating is pretty much impossible. Any crinkle or other paint may get close but in areas like on the upper part of the door where folks rest their arm it will get worn eventually (as the OEM paint does)...

ENGINE: 289 2V TRANS:C4 COLOR: Wimbeldon White DSO: LOCATION: OPTIONS:PS, AM, Vinyl Top COMMENTS:105k semi-survivor, one family car, bought by second owner and flipped to me

Registrys are a noble goal, but only capture those who know of them, and want to join up. "How many" is a piece of string question, how long is it? :wink: After 40+ years I'd think one could safely assume less than half still exist. While a bit unique the CS and HCS were never in the class of...

Check the lines, remove and blow air through to be sure they are not kinked or blocked. Could also be the switch in block, ensure switch is centered. Could also be blocked bleeder, remove bleeder and see if fluid comes out...

68 San Jose S GT coupe... shoud be the same..