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Neil, if you decide to get rid of the custom harness, let me know what you want for it. I could probably use it as the base for my Sunbeam Tiger rewiring project. Steve

They do say that beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.

Sorry I'm a day late Scott. Hope you had a great birthday! Steve

I don't have experience with anyone's harness work (other than my own), but I've heard good things about this company from another website I visit. Even without the factory harness, you might contact him and see what he can do for you. http://midlifeharness.com/ Steve

I don't know what you're talking about Rob. You could have side-stepped the clutch before doing all that.......at least once! :icon_no: Steve

Thanks guys. I had a great day yesterday, mainly because I took a day off from my "post-retirement" job. When I wasn't working I was missing having a job and now that I'm working again I'm missing having free time. Just no pleasing me I guess. Steve

I'm with you Rob! I'm about done talking and just waiting for Arlie to tell me to come over and get it fixed. Maybe you should show up too and we can tell Arlie to go make a beer run while we see what mischief we can create with his car. :grin: Steve

When the key is turned to start, the starter solenoid energizes, 12V is put through the contacts of the solenoid to the starter cable and the brown wire (#262). That 12V goes through plug D and then the flat 4 prong plug to the coil. It will also go through the resistance wire to the switch, but...

Neil, PM sent. Steve

I'm pretty sure there is only 12V on the small stud on the starter cable side when the key is in the "Start" position. Steve

That would work, but it's something else to remember to do to start or shut the car off. I also wouldn't really consider it an extra layer of security, because a '68 is super easy to get started without a key anyway. Personal preference only, but I would keep the wiring as clean as possible and...

I just looked at the Pertronix Ignitor wiring diagram. It says to use full 12V as power to the Ignitor, so you would want to use a separate switched power source for it. Steve

The resistor wire, a pink wire if I remember correctly, is before the engine harness. It's in the section from the switch to the first connector. Since it is just a resistor, not a regulator, it will change as battery voltage changes, but it shouldn't change by that much unless your voltage...

Happy to help you out Arlie. Just an FYI, if you disconnect the coil wire and put a digital volt meter on the wire and measure voltage, it will read 12V because of the high impedance of the meter. You would need to take the voltage reading with everything connected. Is the top of engine wiring...

What are the engine rpm's when you get the clunk? If it's on fast idle when you put it in gear, it is louder and the car will feel like it's jerking because the torque converter is beginning to engage. Steve

If it wasn't all original, I'd say it needed a Thunderbird Super Coupe supercharged V-6 and 5 speed. :grin: Steve

If it's the original fender, and the body shop just skimmed over the holes with body filler, you should be able to see where the mounting holes are in the back of the fender. There would probably be a little bump of filler sticking out. If you take a very small drill bit and turn it very slowly...

Way back when, I ran Valvoline 20/50 racing oil in my Mach 1 exclusively. Of course, I raced the car both on and off the track and treated the speed limit with utter contempt. I never had an issue. Newer cars are built to much tighter tolerances, with lower oil pressure and lighter oils to get...

Congrats to Stephen! He's going to be so happy. Steve