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Steve, It looks like the dashpot for the carburetor to me. Just a guess, as I don't have anything on my GT/CS that look like this part. Hope this helps. Russ

Congratulations on purchasing your GT/CS. I know you will enjoy your car. Before you begin your restoration, I would suggest that you determine what you want your final product will be when the restoration is finished. Will it be an original show car, will it be a resto-mod, will you drive...

David, I would highly recommend you sleeve your block and NOT go over .030" for the bore IF you want to retain your original block. If you bore your engine any more than .030" you run the risk of overheating and all the problems related to high temperatures. You could also find another block...

Thanks to everyone for the positive comments. Russ

Here is the red GT/CS:

The MCA show was a great success with 256 Mustangs. There were two "Specials" that were shown. The red GT/CS is owned by the Kerrs and is a highly optioned example (deluxe interior, J-Code, console, tilt wheel). This car took a second in street-driven class. The Highland green car is mine...

I wouldn't want to argue the point of shoulder harnesses with Paul or anyone else, but my GT/CS has NO provision for shoulder belts, and it was built on Feb 14, 1968. It has the indented rear reflectors, the dash knee pad and padded windshield posts also. I guess this type of issue just goes...

Paul, The "Cast Blast" color is a dark grey metallic, that is also low gloss. I don't believe the grill and shroud should be the color of the argent wheels, as this is more of a silver than a dark grey metallic. Hope this helps, Russ

Hi Darrell, It sounds like you are making great progress on that GT/CS!! The color I used on the grill and surrounding panels is "Cast Blast" by Martin Senyor. It comes in a spray can and can be purchased by Chaffin's Garage in Corona, CA. The phone number is (909) 735-4791. I don't think...

Is anyone planning to attend the MCA show in Park City, UT on August 12-15? My wife and I will be taking our GT/CS and would like to meet site members who will be going. Russ

Steve, Microsoft Word 2000 is the word processing program I used. I believe it is a faily common program. Hope this helps. If you can't get it, let me know and I'll loan you my stamps. Russ

If you have Microsoft Word on your computer, you can duplicate the stamps yourself. Use the "Placard Condensed" font, size 36, and type in the numbers and letters you want to use. (I would copy OK-50, P-24, P-30 and P-51). These number stamps are a sure thing, but I'm sure other inspector...

The stamps were inexpensive to reproduce (around $5.00 each) . I'm currently building a "barn" for my Mustangs, and I don't have access to the stamps. If you can wait a few weeks, I'll try to find them and see about reproducing them. I'll also see about placing photos on this sight in the very...

Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one interested in paint daubs and inspector stamps!! I have four 1968 San Jose Mustangs (one GT, two GT/CS's and one coupe) and I have found four inspector stamps on these cars under the hood. Three stamps seem to be paint inspections, identified by a "P", and...

Randall, On a 1968 Mustang, the VIN is located in four places: the driver's door warranty plate, the aluminum VIN plate on the lower right side of the windshield, and on the right and left sides of the front, inner fender. The fender stampings cannot be seen unless you take the front fenders...

On my '68 GT and my GT/CS, there are the four long, entended stud/bolts that you describe, and they initially held brackets that allowed the factory to install the engine. These installation brackets were mounted with two exhaust manifold stud/bolts. One bracket was mounted on the driver side...

My "J" Code has a 600 cfm Holley (not the original carburetor) and it is jetted with 60's on the primary side and 64's on the secondary side. I live in Flagstaff, AZ , at 7000 ft elevation, and the car runs very strong with no black smoke. I have the same jets in my Shelby GT 350 that has a...

The VIN is stamped on the rear of the block. My understanding is that Mustangs started the six digit VIN with a "1", not a "5" (ie: 8R123456). and that is the root of the question. Does the "5" indicate a Cougar or ????. The engine is definately a "J" code, with '68 casting dates and "4V" and...

My GT/CS was built on February 14 and there is NO provision in the roof for shoulder belts. I have a 1968 GT coupe that was built on February 21 and it has the shoulder belts. Hope this helps, Russ

I attended a swap meet in Phoenix and purchased a complete 1968 "J" code engine. I found a VIN number on the block (8R522XXX). It is clear that this engine did not come out of a Mustang, but does anyone know what model this engine may have come out of???? Thanks, Russ