1968 289 engine recommendation

[Tequila]

Ok, despite my temptation to go with a more powerful engine I decided to get a period correct new/reman 289 long block engine for my 68 GT/CS (C code).

I have couple of reman engine manufactures in mind but one of them has a lot of complaints about warranty resolution thru the BBB. The other manufacturer is more reputable but the engine is considerably more expensive and they won't take back my 302 core so I have to pay an extra $375 to buy a core from them.

So any recommendation on a good engine supplier? My budget is about $2500, give or take a little.

Thanks in advance.

 

[dalorzo_f]

You get what you pay for. Time is money. And the cheap palce kinda seems to be an obvious one to avoid, based on your info.

If you want to cut costs, and your core is useable maybe find a local machine shop, get the block and heads done buy a cam kit and a rotating assembly to be balanced, get someone local who is handy and can provide some advice, buy a good torque wrench and assemble it yourself.

If you are staying near stock (which the price would indicate) then the tolerances and risks are lower than a big Hp "on the edge" engine... your time saves $, better parts, same price, and you learn something (and yes, take some risk). And finding a period correct reman may be difficult, most crate engines will not be date correct.

If you can live with a 302:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hpe-hp06/overview/make/ford

Paint it Ford Blue, done... :smile: Most crate long blocks (and most are 302s) are going to stress your budget, as most are "upgraded", so going with or finding stock parts, buying waht you need, machining and then building yourself will help keep the budget intact....

 

[Mosesatm]

These folks seem to have remanufactured 289 long blocks for sale.
I don't know anything about them, just found the link in Google.
http://remanufactured.com/Ford_8_Cylinder_Engines.htm

 

[franklinair]

Many engine OH shops bore the cylinders .040 oversize. This makes me nervous. I prefer to keep it less than .030, or better yet 0 to .020.

Neil

 

[Tequila]

If you can live with a 302:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hpe-hp06/overview/make/ford

Paint it Ford Blue, done... :smile: Most crate long blocks (and most are 302s) are going to stress your budget, as most are "upgraded", so going with or finding stock parts, buying waht you need, machining and then building yourself will help keep the budget intact....

I looked at Summit Racing.. Most of their engines are beyond my reach and they didn't have a 289. I already bought all the correct brackets and intake manifold for a 289 engine. So, I hate to throw them away or try to resell it.

Good suggestion though.

 

[Tequila]

Many engine OH shops bore the cylinders .040 oversize. This makes me nervous. I prefer to keep it less than .030, or better yet 0 to .020.

Neil

Hi Neil,
Are you talking about local machines shops that rebuilds engine or larger outfits that re-manufacture the block from cores that customer returns, such Jasper engines, etc?

Thanks.

 

[franklinair]

I think the larger companies that remanufacture engines tend to go oversize. Their specs should specify amount of bore. Thin cylinder walls give me heartburn.
I'm sure some folks don't mind, just my own belief.

Neil

 

[CougarCJ]

I want to point out that many of the 289 engines installed in 1968, were really 302 blocks with 289 cranks. They have the same bore.

 

[robert campbell]

I think the larger companies that remanufacture engines tend to go oversize. Their specs should specify amount of bore. Thin cylinder walls give me heartburn.
I'm sure some folks don't mind, just my own belief.

Neil

+1 to Neil. I just had a long block done at Bud's Machine and Engine Shop in Lakewood near Tacoma. A few upgrades and the whole deal was $1,800 bucks. But I supplied an engine that cleaned up at .020. I supplied a cam and lifters, but this engine was balanced and even came with a clutch and pressure plate. I recommend the hyperkinetic piston over cast. So will Bud. It adds very little to the cost. Also came with an oil pump and an upgraded hardened oil pump shaft.

http://www.budsmachine.com/

Bud is a old school hot rodder and in about 2 minutes he came across as very soft spoken and is honest to the bone. Give him a call. His shops work is quality beyond quality.

The big rebuilder in Spokane is a joke. Do not go there.

Rob

 

[dalorzo_f]

Right, but if he wants a 289, and they make a 302, its different. Subtle and no one would know unless they take it apart and check, but...

On the bores, if you can't use your existing block (which you say you want to trade in, if it is useable why not rebuild it instead of tossing it as scrap meatl?) If the bores are shot you can sleeve it to get back to a stock bore. Agree with Neil on the large oversize, which shops seem to do as "bigger is better" (and its cheaper to do a one-size-fits-all stadnrd oversize to reduce costs and stadnrdize parts, and cheaper to bore than sleeve).

Added cost, but as noted if you only pay for machining you can save $ in assmbling yourself. No clue what your lcoal costs would be for that work, would vary shop to shop most likely.

 

[robert campbell]

I bet Bud's can do it for around $2,000.00 bucks. If the current stuff he has is rebuildable.

By the way, hardened valve seats are a bunch of hooey on a toy car. Stay stock. The engine we built also had the Comp Cam roller tip rockers. Nice little upgrade and nearly the same price as a set of new stock rockers. A no brainer.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

I'm confused: You have a 302 engine in a C code GT/CS right?
What 289 parts that you already have won't bolt up to a 302? And who would know the difference if you used a 302 engine? If you're not building a concourse car, use the 302, and a 4BBL intake & carb.
Other than the 4BBL carb & intake, is the photo a 289 or 302?
Maybe you ought to talk to Rob's engine guy. JMHO

Neil

 

[robert campbell]

Neil,
I agree. All brackets are the same in that era. So is the balance of the 302/289 balancer and flex plate or flywheel. Rebuild what you got.

Rob

 

[Tequila]

+1 to Neil. I just had a long block done at Bud's Machine and Engine Shop in Lakewood near Tacoma. A few upgrades and the whole deal was $1,800 bucks. But I supplied an engine that cleaned up at .020. I supplied a cam and lifters, but this engine was balanced and even came with a clutch and pressure plate. I recommend the hyperkinetic piston over cast. So will Bud. It adds very little to the cost. Also came with an oil pump and an upgraded hardened oil pump shaft.

http://www.budsmachine.com/

Bud is a old school hot rodder and in about 2 minutes he came across as very soft spoken and is honest to the bone. Give him a call. His shops work is quality beyond quality.

The big rebuilder in Spokane is a joke. Do not go there.

Rob

Thanks Rob. Appreciate the lead. From what I can see from Bud's website is they are very good. I will give them a call tomorrow. I was ready to go over to Spokane to pick up the engine this Friday and make a weekend trip out of it. Good thing I didn't.

 

[robert campbell]

the company in Spokane are a bunch of crooks and have a long list of complaints!!

Rob

 

[Tequila]

I'm confused: You have a 302 engine in a C code GT/CS right?
What 289 parts that you already have won't bolt up to a 302? And who would know the difference if you used a 302 engine? If you're not building a concourse car, use the 302, and a 4BBL intake & carb.
Other than the 4BBL carb & intake, is the photo a 289 or 302?
Maybe you ought to talk to Rob's engine guy. JMHO

Neil

Neil,
This is my first ever Mustang and I don't know too much about the differences between 302 and 289's. I was told the correct crank pulley has 3 bolts- my old one has 4 bolts. I was also told there is slight difference on the power steering bracket and that the intake manifold for a period correct 289 is different than what I have. I figured it would just be a few more bucks but better to get the period correct stuff. Who knows may be 20 years down the road when some of these components are practically non-existent then I would have to pay an arm and a leg if I decide to restore it again and keep everything stock.

The old engine that I pulled out was a 1973 block and was setup differently.
I will definitely talk to the builder that Rob suggested. Thank you.

 

[Mosesatm]

You may be over-thinking this.:grin:
It's easy to get a correct intake and it should bolt right on, unless Ford made some casting changes in the '70s. Have you decided to use a 4V or 2V carb?

The crank pulley bolts probably are different but unless the engine is out of the car no-one can tell.

Does anyone know if there is a water pump issue with the later model 302s? Isn't the outlet on the wrong side or something similar?

 

[whodat]

What kind of 289 intake did you buy? 2V or 4V cast or aluminum?

 

[robert campbell]

If your 1973 block and heads are rebuildable, just rebuild it. The water pump in 1973 is the same and the front brackets may be slightly different to 1968 stuff, but to 99 percent of the people, no one will be able to tell.

If you have all the pulleys , brackets, and stuff from your 1973, just use them. Any 289/303 4 barrel manifold from 1965 to 1973 will work. Or any aftermarket intake manifold for a 289/302 from that era.

Easy peasey and will save you a ton of bucks!

Rob

 

[TraveledGTCS]

I've dealt with Bud in the past and as Rob says he is good and treats his customers as people, not moneybags. I have an 1967 Jag 420 which I had him do a rebuild many years back on the 4.2 six. Unfortunately I had left it unused for quite a while and now I am in the process of restoring it - again. (The moisture got to the interior and other areas) Every one I have spoken with have recommended him.

Bill