Coil Spring Tools

[somethingspecial]

I am considering replacing the coils in my C code with 1" shorter springs to eliminate the reverse rake, anyone use these and if so, do you like them. Don't mean to hijack the thread. just on topic. Thanks. Mike

 

[Mosesatm]

This is exactly the issue that I am having too. The spring perch and the control arm are not lining up properly. Bummer. As Rob mentioned in the previous post, the spring I am also using is factory length and therefore is a pain to get it compressed.

Thanks for the info.

The spring compressor I like is the one rented by AutoZone. The rental is free as long as you return it, or you can purchase one for $50.

 

[robert campbell]

I am considering replacing the coils in my C code with 1" shorter springs to eliminate the reverse rake, anyone use these and if so, do you like them. Don't mean to hijack the thread. just on topic. Thanks. Mike

Mike,
I have installed the below and they are a great add to any stock suspended Mustang. Lowers you 1 inch and is not too stiff. These kinda mimic the GT front springs of the past. To my knowledge the GT factory springs lowered both the front and rear about 1 inch over the stock suspension.

Rob

http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1967-1973-Mustang-Coil-Springs-Grab-A-Trak-R-620s.html

 

[robert campbell]

The spring compressor I like is the one rented by AutoZone. The rental is free as long as you return it, or you can purchase one for $50.

I am trying to figure out how this one works? Can you shoe it assembled on a spring?

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

The fork goes on the lowest coil and the two hooks attach to the top coil. It's kind of annoying that the bolt head is then on the bottom but I usually jack up the suspension and crank the bolt with a ratchet and socket for a ways, then starts the tedious work with the wrench.

 

[somethingspecial]

Thanks Rob, Those are the ones I am looking at. Car handles great, just don't like the reverse rake. Mike

 

[robert campbell]

The fork goes on the lowest coil and the two hooks attach to the top coil. It's kind of annoying that the bolt head is then on the bottom but I usually jack up the suspension and crank the bolt with a ratchet and socket for a ways, then starts the tedious work with the wrench.

Ouch, I use mine with my air lug nut gun on the top and "bingo" in and out very quickly.

Rob

 

[Sarge]

The internal claw type is what nearly broke my hand when it popped loose. I'll never use it again. Now I've got the MOOG tool that is perfecto. I work on my cars solomente', so I need to be able to do the various jobs in that manner. (Would you believe someone once called me a hardheaded German?):wink:
Christian - PM me with your address if you wish to borrow the spring compressor.

Neil

Neil,
I didn't know you were German...
Robert

 

[whodat]

The spring compressor I like is the one rented by AutoZone. The rental is free as long as you return it, or you can purchase one for $50.

We used these when my neighbors spring compressors broke when we tried to get the spring out. I have the 1" drop springs and just bought the stock springs and now I'm having second thoughts on the stock springs. So I'm going to keep the 1" drop springs on it. I have the photo of my car with them in the gallery. I have to get the springs out to change the mounts and grease them because they squeal like a pig.

 

[Mosesatm]

I used to think that the upper control arms were the source of all squeaks until I installed new shocks on one of my cars and saw that the spring perches were worn out - metal rubbing on metal.

 

[robert campbell]

I just did what I call an upper side refurbishment on one of my customer cars. He had all original suspension and brought over a rebuild kit for only the upper control arm bushings. I explained to him what a pain it was to remove the coil springs and break the upper ball joint. I suggested he replace the below list of things:

1. The upper coil spring insulators on the top of the coils
2. The upper ball joint
3. The spring perch
4. The upper control arm bushings

The above list refurbishes all the parts that require the coil spring to be removed. I talked him into a complete upper arm assembly and installed a set of Scott Drake upper control arm grease fitting extensions. He now has all the upper side parts done and can address other areas without the worry of poor Rob using that darn spring compressor on his car again!!

Rob

 

[dalorzo_f]

I never could get the claw type to work very well. By the time you get it in the slack on the claws pulls the nuts inside so close together there was little compression. Awkward as could be. And the shifting issue was always there, gets tight and they slip on the spring (at least the ones here, somewhat glossy powder coating on the spring). Even with some old inner tube glued to the tips of the hooks, still slipped.

I bought the internal with the two plates, it worked fine.

I made one like the WCCC one, found it a huge hassle as it compresses the spring, then what? You pretty much have to pull the UCA, and then unwind the tool as its bolted to the shock tower cap, to get the spring off the tool. With the two plate one you can remove the spring only, and reinstall without removing the perch or UCA, a big plus in my view. Especially on the big blocks, very little access to remove the UCA nuts unless you pull the engine...

 

[Tequila]

He now has all the upper side parts done and can address other areas without the worry of poor Rob using that darn spring compressor on his car again!!

Rob

Hey Rob,
If you are ever in the mood try on different types of compressors let me know and I will let you borrow from my growing collection of coil spring compressors... :smile:

 

[robert campbell]

My spring compressor is just like the one in your pic 2nd from the right. works great!!

Rob

 

[Tequila]

My spring compressor is just like the one in your pic 2nd from the right. works great!!

Rob

Rob, I was just joking. I couldn't get the inner style ones to work because I went with stock springs. Also there's the rookie factor.

 

[sportyworty]

I don't use any of them. Posted this on the 428 Reg about 7 years ago. Maybe someone here can find it useful.

http://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=11282.0

 

[Tequila]

Interesting... I wonder if they were talking about standard height springs or shorter versions. thanks for the post.

 

[whodat]

I tried compressing the spring with the motor removed and could not get it to come out. Any suggestions?

 

[Ruppstang]

Do you have the suspension hanging off the ground? A picture of what you are doing could be helpful.

 

[dalorzo_f]

Have tried the "lower the suspension" trick but in some cases the spring is still quite loaded and wresting it in and out (or prying on it with a crowbar, seems a bit brute force for me) was a PITA. Depends of the specific spring you are using though, as some of mine have dropped right in and out that way...

If they are still wedged in with the suspension dropped I'd recommend if you can find the compressore on the far left in the pic, rent or buy it (not cheap, but a great tool). They allow you to compress the spring on the workbench and get it in then unload. And unlike the claw type I've never had it slip on the spring, very exciting when you are working the spring in place and the claw slips... a heart rate increase I don't need!

One trick I use is to install the compressor for removal with the spring loaded, then jack up the car and remove. A little less wrench work to compress. Measure when it comes out of the car, and then you know haw far to compress it on the workbench to fit back in.