1968 detailed list of proposed repair costs.......

[mbsf1970]

here is a detailed look at what garage sent me back for my car's repairs:

OPTON #1
306 engine with mild cam (thought he was rebuilding--apparently not) $3800
302 bored .030 over? not sure if he's thinking I'm packing a 302?
labour $2760
complete tune and electronic ignition $450
water pump and hoses $300
all fluids $150
new carb $400
new 3 row rad and thermostat with blade fan $450
materials $150

TOTAL $8460

OPTION#2

Remove and reseal existing engine plus all of above $4670

:surrender:surrender

Stephen

 

[gazrox]

Stephen,

I had my engine done here in Saskatoon and it was half of what he is quoting you. It just doesn't cost that much!

Mine was a complete rebuild, and even accounting for the carb, rad and hoses that were already on the car, its not even close.

I don't know what he's charging for labour by the hour, but shop rates in Saskatoon are about $110/hr, so he's telling you over 200 hours required. I call bullsh**. If you are paying $3,800 for the engine, its coming completed and he's just dropping it in.

Just my honest opinion. I can't help you out with any local knowledge in cowtown so perhaps the local AMOA club can help with some contacts.

Gary

 

[Don]

Stephen,
I don't know what he's charging for labour by the hour, but shop rates in Saskatoon are about $110/hr, so he's telling you over 200 hours required. I call bullsh**.
Gary

Might want to check your math before you call BS :wink:

My pencil comes up with about
25 hrs: $2760/$/110 $/hr = 25 hrs

 

[dalorzo_f]

Here in Australia I'm at $4600 to machine the block, sleeve 3 cylinders and bore/hone all to 0.030, line hone, deck, fit cam bearings, linish crank, balance, replace all intake valves and guides, regrind exh valves, reassemble heads, and supply cam, pistons, rings, main bearings, oil pump and all new ARP fasteners... (probably forgot a few items) I do all reassembly.

The per part costs look reasonable, I can't fill my C4 for here your "all fluids" cost and $400 for a new carb seems in the ballpark... labor and parts are not cheap... key issue would be the quality.

 

[Mosesatm]

Stephen,
Are you concerned about originality? If not, Marty's engine sounds like the way to go, or even a crate engine from Ford.
I'm not sure how you'd get your old engine home if it's numbers-matching and you want to keep it, unless you want to borrow my truck instead of the GT/CS.

Oh, by the way, the insurance guy said we're covered.

 

[Ruppstang]

here is a detailed look at what garage sent me back for my car's repairs:

OPTON #1
306 engine with mild cam (thought he was rebuilding--apparently not) $3800
302 bored .030 over? not sure if he's thinking I'm packing a 302?
labour $2760
complete tune and electronic ignition $450
water pump and hoses $300
all fluids $150
new carb $400
new 3 row rad and thermostat with blade fan $450
materials $150

TOTAL $8460

OPTION#2

Remove and reseal existing engine plus all of above $4670

:surrender:surrender

Stephen

With Steve and Arlie's offer I do not even know why you are talking with this guy?

 

[mbsf1970]

With Steve and Arlie's offer I do not even know why you are talking with this guy?

i'm not. It was simply a case of closing loop for information's sake. I am quite thrilled with possibility of the Steve arlie combo!!
stephen
p.s. I want keep #'s matching......I don't want to be the guy who seperates engine from car after almost 50 yrs!

 

[Ruppstang]

p.s. I want keep #'s matching......I don't want to be the guy who seperates engine from car after almost 50 yrs![/QUOTE]

If your block has the VIN and is savable using it certainly be my recommendation! Do you know where to look for the VIN?

One of the benefits to joining a club or a site like this one is help in identifying the shops that do poor work or over charge. We all have been on the short end of those deals and that makes me want to help others.
Marty

 

[gazrox]

oops, sorry for the typo. 8 Hours max for the labour, not 25.

 

[Don]

p.s. I want keep #'s matching......I don't want to be the guy who seperates engine from car after almost 50 yrs!

Good call on keeping it #'s matching if you have that option. Although it may take a few years these cars (only if all original w matching #'s) will start to bring big bucks.

 

[mbsf1970]

(If your block has the VIN and is saveable using it certainly be my recommendation! Do you know where to look for the VIN?)

No, I don't but I have a strong feeling that someone here will fill me in!! :wink:

Stephen

 

[stangfan]

At the back of the engine just below the intake is a flat surface. The vin will be stamped into it facing up. My car turned out to have a replacement block, but it is a 68 block so I'm not too concerned. :grin:

 

[robert campbell]

Steve,
VIN is hard to see in the car. It is located on the flat area of the block just behind the intake manifold and towards the left side. This picture is from the back of an engine on a stand. You will need to remove the air cleaner and lay over the top of the left fender and get your head past the carb with a flashlight. More than likely you will need a rag and solvent to wipe grease and grime and possibly a small wire brush

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

Here are a couple photos of the flat spot, just behind the intake.

 

[mbsf1970]

is that the top of the tranny I see in those last 2 pics?

 

[stangfan]

is that the top of the tranny I see in those last 2 pics?

Yes it is.

 

[joedls]

is that the top of the tranny I see in those last 2 pics?

Yes. That's the top of the bellhousing. The pad with the VIN is just in front of the bellhousing.