• Welcome to the CaliforniaSpecial.com forums! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all our site features, please take a moment to join our community! It's fast, simple and absolutely free.

    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

    Please Note: If you are an existing member and your password no longer works, click here to reset it.

1968 Finally getting my HCS on the road again! - Startup procedure

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,322
I bet if you drive it some (a good thing for finding other problems) the blue will go away. Some treatment may help. Your exhaust valve seals and your oil rings are trying to figure out what is what after sitting around a long time. I have replaced the valve seals (usually broken and in pieces) on the engine (not that much fun) on quite a few long mile motors and had great success at eliminating a lot of blue smoke.

Like Marty says the full rebuild is in your future, but for a sunny day car it could go quite a few years!

Rob
 

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Simple pre crank item I use is to pop the valve covers (as noted a clean under there can be needed), remove the distributor, and take a drill, long 1/4" extension and a deep socket (socket taped to the extension!) to fit the oil pump shaft and give it a good spin. Ensures that oil is getting thru the galleys and to the rockers and pre lubes the lifters a bit....
 
OP
OP
admin

admin

Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 18, 2002
Messages
2,131
Jon,
Any progress?
Unfortunately no. I got it running and started on the brakes, but I couldn't even bleed the 1st wheel. I pulled the bleeder completely and still couldn't get a drop of fluid to come out. Then it got to be summer here in Phoenix and working on anything outside totally stopped.

My brake warning light is on, which isn't a surprise really considering that it's been sitting so long. I'm sure there was a slow leak that caused the pressure to drop, flipping thr valve.

Is it possible that the brake distribution block is now causing a block in the flow and that's why I can get any fluid out? So far I've only tried the rear passenger wheel.

The weather is getting better now, so I should be able to get back into it.
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,322
A good shop will have a "power bleeder" (pressurized brake fluid) that they can hook up and drive the fluid through your system. This will eliminate any blockage and at least give you a fresh start to look at the components.

Rob
 
Top