1968 over heating

[green56]

I had this problem before but thought i had it beat but i guess not help
1 rebuilt engine boiled out engine put new crank, cam, rings,heads had them boiled out new seats new valves roler rockers did a total rebuilt every thing went down the tubes this weekend before i forget 4 blade fan 160 stat put new rediator cap i installed a 3 row radiator. We were at a car show about 10 miles from home, going their the water temp ran normal now comes the other part the temp was 90 degrees we were on black top humidty was about 67%. There a nice breez, but we were following cars comming home. We took 3rd mach 1 took 1&2. Any help, could it be because sitting on black top all day and be in a line of cars picking up the heat from the tail pipes and weather all combined? Would by going to a 24" 3 pass Radiator do any good or help? how about this liquid coolent that people pour in their radiators. Help need to find some answers you guys have the knowledge please help Tom From Wisconsin

 

[nfrntau]

First thing I would do is make certain your thermostat is opening. Put it in a pan of water and put the fire to the pot. Use a ccandy thermometer and then you will know when and if it is opening.

 

[Mustanger]

First thing I would do is make certain your thermostat is opening. Put it in a pan of water and put the fire to the pot. Use a ccandy thermometer and then you will know when and if it is opening.

I second checking the thermostat as a relatively simple and low cost step ... however, if you have some money you're willing to spend, then consider a 4 row 24" radiator, a fan shroud, and a 5 or 6 blade fan ... and if that fails, then there is an aftermarket product (Redline or Royal Purple) that can help lower the coolant temperature, in fact, if you want to spend less money you may consider this option before the the other purchases :smile: ...

 

[teamlo]

How radical is the engine? Something doesn't sound right. I have a newly rebuilt J-code 302, automatic. Pretty well stock except for a Comp Cams hydraulic version of the 289 Hi-Po cam and roller rockers. 9.5:1 compression. Stock exhaust. I am running a stock type (but new) 2-row radiator, 160 thermostat, stock fan, no shroud. Regular antifreeze (no "water wetter" etc.). The needle barely moves off the "C" mark on the gauge. I've run it hard and been in traffic. It never even TRIED to overheat.

Best of luck,

Terry

 

[green56]

How radical is the engine? Something doesn't sound right. I have a newly rebuilt J-code 302, automatic. Pretty well stock except for a Comp Cams hydraulic version of the 289 Hi-Po cam and roller rockers. 9.5:1 compression. Stock exhaust. I am running a stock type (but new) 2-row radiator, 160 thermostat, stock fan, no shroud. Regular antifreeze (no "water wetter" etc.). The needle barely moves off the "C" mark on the gauge. I've run it hard and been in traffic. It never even TRIED to overheat.

Best of luck,

Terry

would like to know what if i pulled the 160 stat out and test the engine that way would not need heat because it is in storage by the snow flys

 

[teamlo]

You definitely want to be running a thermostat. When you remove the thermostat completely, it doesn't allow the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough for the radiator to dissipate heat.

Terry

 

[jayp]

Where did you get the waterpump? Parts store rebuilt pumps are notorious for poor flow. After a new 4 pass radiator, three different thermostats, shroud, water wetter and hoses, I bought a Ford motorsports waterpump for the 347 stroker in my GT/CS and that solved the overheating problem.

 

[J.Bart]

i have taken the back plate off of water pumps, and adjusted the impellar so as to tighten up the gap.

 

[green56]

the water pump is 1year old it is napa Tru-Flow water pump it is brand new not a rebuilt

 

[nfrntau]

As said earlier, check your thermostat. Change your fluid using distilled water, antifreeze and water wetter or similar and see what happens.
You might also install a thermometer cap to have a second source of measurement. It is possible your engine is fine and your gauge went bad. I have one of these temp thermostats on my car and it matches what my aftermarket temp gauge says. They are made by Mr. Gasket. Also a fan shroud will help quite a bit, although it may not be stock for your car.
Cheers

 

[green56]

i do have a fan shroud and useing 4 blade fan can someone tell me whey you should drill two 1/8 holes in the thermostat? was out to day for a test on car because the tempoutside is 80 and low humidity was out for about 45 min had to get home temp went to the high end of gauge we are going to work on car Monday and try some of the things thanks for your help

 

[Ruppstang]

One 1/16th is enough to let the air out of the system. Put the hole at the top of the t-stat. Marty

 

[somethingspecial]

Unless I missed it, one item not mentioned is the Temp. sending unit. I don't know if they can fail sending a hot signal to the gauge or not. It is cheap and worth a try before costly improvements to cool the engine. I would try that first. Mike

 

[green56]

water pump

checked that out it works fine

 

[Mosesatm]

My guesses are:
Retarded timing
Air bubble
Stuck thermostat
Faulty radiator cap

If you remove the cap (when the water is cool) and look inside the radiator does the water flow from one side to the other when the engine is running?

 

[robert campbell]

lots of info in this thread. My guess is retarded timing.

http://www.californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7426&highlight=heating

 

[green56]

water pump

Checked the water removed cap on radiator the water was moving back and forth when cool

 

[green56]

water pump

was working on car Monday got the water hot right at the end of the temp reading checked temp 250 sprinkled a little water on rad the temp droped to 230 so i know that the pump is working and stat is open to day Tues we are puting high test gas in car and mix it with the gas in tank and see how it runs might have to change the carb and then the timming back and forth to get it tuned up right so we will see. giving a up date

 

[green56]

overheating

so far we found the timing 18degrees but it at 10 and work are way down until it starts to ping then back off will keep everbody informed when we finished should be Wed

 

[robert campbell]

Are you talking total timing or initial timing? Huge difference. I have found that running between 12 and 16 degrees BTDC of "initial" timing without the vacuum hoses on the distributor to be a good start. A total of 38 to 40 degrees of "total" timing at about 2,500 RPM is good with all hooked up. With stock distributors it is hard to run that much initial timing as it will produce to much total timing. Then there is the problem of to much to "soon". Another lesson.

Set your stock distributor at about 12 degrees initial without any hoses on the vacuum dash pot or pots. Run around in the heat at slow speeds without much high speed driving.

If this improves the heating problem we are getting somewhere. This was exactly the problem with Amy's car Satan! To little initial advance on the distributor!

Is this a single or dual diaphram distributor?

Rob