1968 Prepping for media blasting

[rvrtrash]

Plus it will be much easier now to replace that right front (battery tray) apron.

Steve

 

[admin]

We made more progress today. Separated the C4 transmission from the engine. Then stripped off the engine accessories to get ready for some serious degreasing.



One area that was a bit of a shock was the cooling system. Lots of scale and rust in there. And while taking off the 5/8" bypass hose from the thermostat housing, the nipple of the housing just disintegrated, staying in the hose! And where the bypass hose goes into the water pump and intake manifold, the passages were completely clogged. So, yes, thank you to everyone for making me pull the engine/trans. I would have found this issue leaving the engine in the car, but having it out just makes it that much easier to deal with.

I wasn't planning on pulling off the intake manifold, but at this point I really have to in order to see how much scale/rust there is. If there's a lot in the intake runners, what's the best way to remove it? Will a hot tank do it? I'm taking my radiator in for service and they may be able to hot tank my manifold, but I haven't asked yet.

The water pump has a FoMoCo casting. Is this the original water pump or did the dealer service pumps also have FoMoCo? I suppose it's possible the water pump was never replaced, but mileage is over 150k. I know I haven't replaced it, but I really haven't put that many miles on it considering how many years I've owned it.

Below are photos of the C4 transmission with a few factory paint markings. I can't quite read the last one. Some sort of OK stamp maybe?

 

[rvrtrash]

The dealer replacement pumps had FoMoCo stamps, but probably wouldn't have had the 1968 part number like yours. Long ago, you could have a water pump rebuilt, instead of just replacing it. Yours might be original, or the original casting that was rebuilt. Also in the past, auto parts stores sold rebuilt pumps. I've actually sorted through a stores supply to find one with the correct casting number, 30+ years ago. Most people weren't as anal as me, but it's a possibility. Your intake can be tanked to remove the scale. You may have to take it to an engine rebuilder for that, if the radiator shop can't do it.

Steve

 

[Mosesatm]

That scale may also be in the heads and the block.

 

[franklinair]

Be sure the block & heads are thoroughly flushed, have the radiator core checked & cleaned, and install a coolant filter (splices into the upper radiator hose). CJ Mustang sells them (about $35).

Neil

 

[speedy02]

The dealer replacement pumps had FoMoCo stamps, but probably wouldn't have had the 1968 part number like yours. Long ago, you could have a water pump rebuilt, instead of just replacing it. Yours might be original, or the original casting that was rebuilt. Also in the past, auto parts stores sold rebuilt pumps. I've actually sorted through a stores supply to find one with the correct casting number, 30+ years ago. Most people weren't as anal as me, but it's a possibility. Your intake can be tanked to remove the scale. You may have to take it to an engine rebuilder for that, if the radiator shop can't do it.

Steve

1968-70 289, 302, 351W Water Pump Rebuild Service & Return Shipping

1969-70 Mustang & Shelby Concours specialty parts, Autolite alternators, driveshaft restoration, and reproductions. Collection of the best repro parts available

www.deadnutson.com

Casting: C8OE-D, C8AE-J

 

[Ricky Knapik]

Pay attention to some of the markings such as the big yellow D on the r/f header panel. They all mean something

 

[Ruppstang]

That scale may also be in the heads and the block.

Where there is smoke there is fire. if it were me, I would have the engine torn down, inspected and at least resealed. For me it is always that thing that you did not do that bites you. Then you have to go backwards to fix it. Remember that your car is 55 years old and there may be more surprises waiting for you.

 

[Mosesatm]

Where there is smoke there is fire. if it were me, I would have the engine torn down, inspected and at least resealed. For me it is always that thing that you did not do that bites you. Then you have to go backwards to fix it. Remember that your car is 55 years old and there may be more surprises waiting for you.

Agree. The rear seal is probably as hard as a rock by now. Removing an oil pan and inspecting the contents is sort of like an archaeological dig.