1968 Trunk Tailight Filler Cardboard

[1968Cally]

I am almost done with my Trunk and interior refresh. It is looking good.

One more task left that I have been putting off is installing the trunk mat and the cardboard filler panels.

Two questions.

1) The creases at the bottom of the panels. Based on the old ones, it appears that they should be bent at the crease to a right angle to the rest of the board. Is this correct? If so, do you bend these strips to face the front or the rear of the car?
2) Do the filler panels sit on top of the trunk mat or do you put the filler panels in first and then lay the trunk mat up against them?

I have reviewed other threads about these panels and the tricks for installation but did not see these two questions answered.

Thanks in advance

Dave

 

[1968Cally]

Gee, 61 views and no replies! At this point, I would take a reply of "I don't know" Just kidding guys.

 

[somethingspecial]

The filler panels were originally folded at the crease and the folded tab was screwed to the raised lip in the trunk floor. The screws were only used in early production (probably the first 200) then the screws were deleted. The tab still sits on the lip, tab toward the taillights, then bends back to to hook under the upper lip of the trunk. Hope this helps. Mike

 

[franklinair]

Don't know if I'm right or wrong, but here's what I did: I have the lower strips bent facing forward, as it seems to offer more surface area contact for security. I also installed the panels on top of the trunk mat which again, I thought was more secure to hold the trunk mat in place. (It wouldn't surprise me if this was counter to factory process, as the trunk mat may have been installed later in the assembly process.)
Before installing, I moistened the cardboard by spritzing water on them in order to soften the material in order to avoid creasing the cardboard when bending it to fit. (Be generous with the water softening- it will dry out OK.)

Neil

 

[1968Cally]

Thanks, Guys!

 

[1968Cally]

The filler panels were originally folded at the crease and the folded tab was screwed to the raised lip in the trunk floor. The screws were only used in early production (probably the first 200) then the screws were deleted. The tab still sits on the lip, tab toward the taillights, then bends back to to hook under the upper lip of the trunk. Hope this helps. Mike

Mike, Just took a closer look as my car was built on February 9th. I believe it was about the 150-175 CS built. Son of a gun, the screw holes are there. So, where they are situated, It looks like I do not bend the creases to a right angle. Just a slight bend should do it.

 

[1968Cally]

So, how wet do you get these cardboard fillers. Is it best to put them in wet or get them wet and then wrap them around something round and secure them until dry?

So, how wet? Spray them with an atomizer bottle? Both sides? Baptize them in a bathtub?

 

[franklinair]

Spritz BOTH sides, VERY wet. If you have something round for curvature (while wet) there is less chance of creasing. Once they have a curvature, dampen them again when installing. They'll dry out just fine.

Neil

 

[1968Cally]

Spritz BOTH sides, VERY wet. If you have something round for curvature (while wet) there is less chance of creasing. Once they have a curvature, dampen them again when installing. They'll dry out just fine.

Neil

Thanks, Neil

 

[whodat]

What I did was trace the filler on a piece of masonite and painted it black. This way if it was to get wet it wont ruin it.

Misread the question, sorry.

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[J_Speegle]

Don't check here every day. Here are two shots from two original unrestored San Jose coupes with original filler boards

Hope this helps

 

[1968Cally]

What I did was trace the filler on a piece of masonite and painted it black. This way if it was to get wet it wont ruin it.


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How did you get the Masonite to bend into a curve? I was thinking that something like 1/16 plastic would work nicely. Have no idea where to get that. Maybe black poster board :grin:

 

[1968Cally]

Don't check here every day. Here are two shots from two original unrestored San Jose coupes with original filler boards

Hope this helps

Wrong "filler" board. We are discussing the taillight panel boards. Wish they were as easy to install as the floor filler boards!

 

[whodat]

How did you get the Masonite to bend into a curve? I was thinking that something like 1/16 plastic would work nicely. Have no idea where to get that. Maybe black poster board :grin:

I misread the title as well


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[1968Cally]

I misread the title as well


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Too many trunk "filler boards."

 

[whodat]

Too many trunk "filler boards."

When you get it in place post a photo so I can see “what else I need to buy “ for the car.


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[1968Cally]

When you get it in place post a photo so I can see “what else I need to buy “ for the car.


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Will do.

 

[J_Speegle]

Wrong "filler" board. We are discussing the taillight panel boards. Wish they were as easy to install as the floor filler boards!

Sorry

1) The creases at the bottom of the panels. Based on the old ones, it appears that they should be bent at the crease to a right angle to the rest of the board. Is this correct? If so, do you bend these strips to face the front or the rear of the car?

The AO Smith drawings some the bottom lip aiming towards the rear/taillight panel in the drawings

How did you get the Masonite to bend into a curve?

Places that deal with 68-70 Shelbys have forms they place the cardboard on, press it over time and let it site to conform and reduce the chances of it developing (cracks) or folds in the surface.

Don't recall ever seeing the taillight board covers in one of the Calif Specials Would love to see an example from an unrestored car.

 

[1968Cally]

Wow

I had been procrastinating on doing my trunk tail light filler boards while I have been detailing the engine compartment and engine and doing it as correct as possible. For now, I am keeping the Shelby intake and Edelbrock performer carb and Sanden compressor.

So, on Sunday, I tackled the first filler board. I used our water well tank as a form as it is about 15 inches in diameter Tied three ropes (slightly loose around the tank and after soaking the inside with distilled water in a spray bottle (our well water has a lot of sediment in it not to mention iron) I slipped the panel behind the ropes. Then, I took two 1x2s and set them on edge at the ends of the board.

Then I soaked the outside about a dozen times over a 40 hour period. As the ropes stretched and the board formed around the tank, I used plier handles to act as a tourniquet to periodically tighten the ropes.

I just put the first one in and it fits like a glove. The bottom tabs are bent towards the tail light panel. See the pictures. Note that I am using the old burtex trunk mat as an additional underlayment for the new burtex mat.

I also included a couple of pics of the second board on it's form. Time to go down and spritz it again.

Thanks for the secret magic advice about the water! I can't seem to get the two pictures of the board on the tank form to stand upright. Sorry.

Dave

 

[stangfan]

Nice job!