1968 what type of pertronix would i use

[green56]

i would like to put a Pertronix distrib and new coil to match for my 289 2 bbl or what other parts that i would need Their are a few in book but i would not know which one to get any help would be appreciated thanks Tom from WI

 

[franklinair]

I use the Pertronix II in the stock distributor, with the Flame Thrower Coil. Never had a problem. Timing set @ 12 degrees BTDC (without vacuum connected).
But I also opted for the Edelbrock 4BBL intake manifold & Edelbrock 500CFM 4BBL carburetor with electric choke.
This combination works well on a stock 289.

Neil

 

[p51]

On a 302 stock engine I've done pretty much the same thing as Neil with some slight differences:

(1) Pertronix 1281 ignitor replacing points in a stock distributor
http://pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx
http://www.pertronix.com/support/videos/ignitor/install-ford-motorcraft/default.aspx
(2) Flame-Thrower 40111 coil (black w/epoxy fill)
http://pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-40111
(3) A relay to supply full 12v to the coil controlled by the resistor wire that normally would go straight to a stock coil *
(4) Initial timing 11 degrees BTDC (set w/o vacuum advance hooked up)
(5) 600 CFM Edelbrock carb w/electric choke (1406)
(6) Distributor vacuum advance hooked to manifold vacuum **

* The Flame-Thrower coil takes keyed 12V directly w/o a resistor wire so some folks (I think) just put a non-resistive wire in parallel to bypass the resistive wire. Other people use the Pertronix 1 with a stock coil and the resistor wire but for me that seemed to not work as well (it seemed like I was getting misfires with that setup but it may just have been a bad stock coil??)

** A number of people (who I respect) disagree with me on this.

 

[green56]

pertronix

so if i getthe ignitor with the flame thrower coil would that all i would need if i get the ignitor 2 it does not come for a 68 Then a nother parts book ask if it is amale or female i dont know or vac advance or mech advance the coil i under stand but every thing else i dont help Tom

 

[rvrtrash]

Your distributor is vacuum advance. Male or Female relates to the distributor cap (if you're looking at a complete distributor). It's how the plug wires attach. Standard Ford is female. It looks like Pertronix doesn't make a "stock look" distributor in Ignitor II for anything, so you'd have to go with standard Ignitor, step up to Ignitor III with the rev limiter or use the conversion unit in your stock distributor, which would be part #91281.

Steve

 

[franklinair]

A stock 289 is never going to smoke the rear tires .:smile:

1.) Stick with the stock Ford 289 Distributor.
2.) For normal driving, the Pertronix II is quite adequate.
3.) The Flame Thrower Coil (40,000 volts) works great.
4.) No need to spend $$ for the Pertronix Distributor.
5.) No need for a Rev Limiter for a stock 289 engine.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You will have to run 12V power to the coil. The original Ford circuit to the coil is done through a Pink resistance wire that only gives the coil 6 volts. There are several places to pick up the 12V when the Ignition Switch is in the RUN position. I opted to use the connector @ the firewall (in the engine compartment). It's the square connector, wire #904 in the wiring diagram.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For a 289 engine, anything more than a 500CFM carburetor is overkill. A small block cannot suck in any more air than that. (351's & larger engines can)
I opted for the electric choke for convenience, and not having to install a choke cable.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Distributor & Timing:
Whenever working on a Distributor it is wise to check & adjust the timing.
I set mine @ 12 degrees BTDC, idling @ 600 RPM, with NO vacuum connected to the Vacuum Advance diaphragm. After the timing is set- THEN connect the vacuum hose to the Vacuum Advance. You will then see an advance in the timing, and RPM will increase. Whether your vacuum line source is direct from the intake manifold or metered vacuum from the carburetor is your choice. (I prefer metered vacuum from the carb)
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For enhanced 289 performance (minor mods) I recommend the Edelbrock 4BBL Intake Manifold & 500CFM Carburetor. And dual exhaust.
These two mods allow the engine to 'breathe' easier, giving a slight increase in horsepower. (After all- an engine is simply an air pump. It sucks air in and blows air out.)

Hope this helps.

Neil

 

[p51]

so if i getthe ignitor with the flame thrower coil would that all i would need if i get the ignitor 2 it does not come for a 68 Then a nother parts book ask if it is amale or female i dont know or vac advance or mech advance the coil i under stand but every thing else i dont help Tom

Just to be clear. There are two ways you can go about this...

(1) Buy just a module (ignitor, ignitor II, ignitor III, each with more advanced features) that replaces points in a stock 1968 mustang distributor. And additionally (and optionally) buy a Flame-Thrower *coil* that works with that module. That is the option that both Neil and I described above. If your stock distributor is in ok condition and all you want to do is replace points this is probably the best (and cheapest) way to go. My recommendation would be the ignitor II module and the Flamethrower coil that goes with it.


(2) Or you can buy a complete Flame-Thrower *distributor* from Pertronix. There are multiple ways to go here. Pertronix has (at least) 3 different versions (there may be more):

PerTronix Flame-Thrower Stock Look Cast Distributors D134600 *
This uses an ignitor inside it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d134600

PerTronix Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Billet Distributors with Ignitor II® Module D130700 *
This uses an ignitor II inside it
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d130700/overview/year/1968/make/ford

PerTronix Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Billet Distributors with Ignitor III® Module D7130700 *
This uses an ignitor III inside it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d7130700/overview/make/ford

* Important: For all these distributors you have to ensure that the distributor gear is of the right material (iron or steel) for your engine. I believe that older circa-1968 flat-tappet cams need iron. Later circa-'90s roller rocker cams need steel.

The best/simplest advice is just to call Pertronix tech support directly (or maybe Summit racing). They can probably walk you through all the options.
http://www.pertronix.com/support/faq/default.aspx

 

[stangfan]

ba

I have a stock 289 2V and use the basic yellow top coil with the base Pertronix module that hides under the distributor cap. Used the same set up on my previous 289 2V car. Works perfectly with no issues.

 

[p51]

Distributor & Timing:
Whenever working on a Distributor it is wise to check & adjust the timing.
I set mine @ 12 degrees BTDC, idling @ 600 RPM, with NO vacuum connected to the Vacuum Advance diaphragm....

Neil,

Just curious... how much mechanical advance do you have dialed into your stock distributor? At what RPM does it max out? And, for reference, what is the static compression ratio of your engine?

Thanks
James

 

[green56]

per

i hope i bought the right parts let me know if i did something wrong I bought the pertronix ignitor 3 and the flame thrower for 45,000 volts this is what the counter man said i did not need a rev limiter so if it is wrong could you let me know thanks everbody for your help Tom from WI

 

[franklinair]

You spent a few bucks more than you needed to ($35/$40) but what you got will work just fine. (Your 289 will never approach the rev limiter RPM range)

James:
The Distributor mechanical advance is pure stock.
I NEVER turn the engine faster than nominal driving speeds.:lipsseal:
After I get 500 miles on the engine I'll do a compression check. Pistons are stock. .040 oversize.
The book says 130 to 160 PSI compression, so I'm sure it will be on the high end.
I drive my Mustangs like 'a little old lady' (unlike my adopted son, Rob):wink: Its a carryover from when I was a youngster working in my Dad's garage: House Rule- 'You break it, you fix it."
I used to watch him build Ford Model B 4 cylinder engines that could run with Offenhausers- and win. His balancing method for pistons & rods consisted of an apothecary scale and an aspirin tablet to determine differential weight of each piece. Amazing. Sure miss that guy.

Neil

 

[p51]

...The Distributor mechanical advance is pure stock....

Mine too. I've got (timing checked with vacuum advance disconnected)
11* initial at idle @750 RPM
37* "all in" (initial + mechanical) by 3400 RPM
10.1 compression

 

[green56]

pertronix

I just took a compresion test on all 8 the readings were 150 to 155 so that seems good, Was going to a car show but it rained and getting hot as the hours pass the humidity is about 65 t6o 70 % high to sit out in the open you would roast. Roads are wet and it is in a open park so the grass will be wet, another car show down the tubes next one is july 4th. Iam lucky if i put any more then 400 miles a year Apirl till Sept the put away till next year when the snow is gone. I would like to thank you all on helping me get the right equip for my car i hope this will solve the problem. when we put this tool from the spark plug to the dist and watch it fire it is like you could see it miss once in a while points look good it is a fairly new dist so we thought to put in the electronic but i still would like to thank all of you Tom, from WI

 

[robert campbell]

I have a stock 289 2V and use the basic yellow top coil with the base Pertronix module that hides under the distributor cap. Used the same set up on my previous 289 2V car. Works perfectly with no issues.

Steve,
I have seen your combination work, but Pertronix encourages the use of their coil due to its output, input, impedance, and resistance are matched to their ignition module. I had two abrupt failures on my Pertronix module matched to a Mallory coil. Each time right in traffic and luckily I had my points and condenser, and a screwdriver in the glove box.

Pertronix even recommends a different coil for the original, Igniter II and Ignitor III module applications. Each with a different part number. After I changed to their coil my car never missed a beat. I have changed a few customer cars from yellow tops to the proper Pertonix coil. If you are into concurs you can changed it out at the show by having two coils each mounted on a coil holder for easy changing.

Or carry your points for safe keeping.

Rob

 

[stangfan]

Steve,
I have seen your combination work, but Pertronix encourages the use of their coil due to its output, input, impedance, and resistance are matched to their ignition module. I had two abrupt failures on my Pertronix module matched to a Mallory coil. Each time right in traffic and luckily I had my points and condenser, and a screwdriver in the glove box.

Pertronix even recommends a different coil for the original, Igniter II and Ignitor III module applications. Each with a different part number. After I changed to their coil my car never missed a beat. I have changed a few customer cars from yellow tops to the proper Pertonix coil. If you are into concurs you can changed it out at the show by having two coils each mounted on a coil holder for easy changing.

Or carry your points for safe keeping.

Rob

Thanks Rob. I was not aware of this. The combination has been fine for almost 4 years now, and my previous car is also going great with this combo since 2009. Now that I'm aware of the potential, I will keep an eye on this.