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And I did get it in, still odd its so tweaked... had to jam on resonator full on the H pie (actually considered trimming the H pipe but did not) and one pulled back about 1". The wrench the muffler into place while clamping to get it "close", still skewed about 1/2" and one exhaust tip is full...

Sorry, no... I used a paper template and tossed it once I was done.... as the reference point seem to shift a bit (due to tolerances on the welding) I can send a photos but the locations are hard to "measure up", thus why I used paper...

Thanks....

Have seen both a screw/bolt style and the spring clip used on the fuel line just under the front edge of the door by the torque box. Which is correct? Late April build, if it matters...

I thought of that, but they should be very close. I templated them off three '68 dual exhaust cars I have (S convertible, S GT coupe, X code....) while all the holes and panels under the rear seat are not 100% in the exact same spot on the 3, they were within 1/8" or so... and as that would...

Yeah, the Fuller stuff is great, used a bit on the EXP repli-bute. But for a C code a ~$5500 exhaust system (with conversion rate, tax, duty, and shipping) is a bit over the top... if I had a Shelby it would be a no brainer to use his stuff. The odd part is it all lined up far better before...

Needed to replace the original single exhaust on the C code. Had a "spare" 2" dual exhaust setup from the H pipe back left over from the 390's so figure why not, just buy an H pipe and slap it on as from the H pipe back it is all the same. the duals won't do much for the C code but will work...

April '68 build, has the "flat top" style... just polished them up with some Autosol and a Dremel came up good... but did not see any part numbers on the backside, just flat... anyone know if the OEMs had an ID/number or not....

This shot shows the difference between a stock '68 (off the car in-hand) and a repro "kinda" GT/CS grille (modified '67 repro). Note all the mounting points for the horse/corrals on the stock one.

They are included in AMK kits. Have not seen them sold separately... maybe someone has a few collected...

Yes, the cover is supposed to be painted the dark grey in the middle to align (kind of) to the other trims. The bolts were CAD plated, not argent. I believe they should be with conical washers, not serrated. The "T/S" bolt manufacturer stamp is common for '68 San Jose cars... unsure of...

AMK sells P&O finish in a bag of 10... of course you need 12... :undecided I found zinc dichromate ones locally, but am not sure I like the look. Thanks for the replies.

yes... the "4 speed" on the tag led me to believe you had a top loader... glad I'm not the only one who does stuff like that. Good thing for you is it cheap postage to return for me those go on the shelf in the "maybe I can sell it" pile.... :wink:

It mounts to the rear of the transmission, on or near the shift linkages. The shifter actuates it when in reverse.... I forget where it plugs into the harness, was quite a while ago when I put one on my S GT 4 speed...

Sorry to play grammar police... but Monterrey is in Mexico... Monterey is in Cali... used to live there, back when Cannery Row was still was a shell of its former self as Steinbeck saw it... Doc Ricketts and the hippie hangouts on the scruffy side of the tracks... pre tourist trap, pre...

I believe the California Special scripts did not use barrel nuts, just flat rectangular press on spring clips (3/32") to retain them to the panel. The late style reflectors used a stamped flange nut, gold-ish finish with black sealer. Similar to the below. Correct?

A moderately simple and "zero drill/cut" way to install Rocketman Innovations plug-and-play relays. Used a short piece of perforated steel strap. Bolted it to the relays. Bent to fit under the valence (dropped the valence for easy access) and mounts to the existing grille trim and grille...

Yes, the rectangular "washer" is backwards and off by 90 degrees. As noted supposed to clip over one of the little boxes in the grille. They often break the grille. I make as small flat plate out of aluminum, paint to match and put it between the nut and "washer" to spread the load a bit...

If you think about it the "correct" hook-up pushed water "top down" which could make displacing the air more difficult than "bottom up". Once the systems is full not sure why it may gurgle as the core is below the level of the fluid in the radiator... maybe...

It makes no difference in function. But most ran the lower hose on the core to the manifold, upper to the pump...