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Some info here... http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/concours-forum/587411-gas-tank-stamp-revisited.html

And from MCA docs... "E. Gas Tank: Original type and Ni-terne steel finish. Drain plug required"

"Some" have a stamping from the manufacturer on them, from the rolled sheet steel so no consistent location on any one tank AFAIK. I forget the markings. And I believe "some" have date codes stamped on the mounting flange on the bottom of the rear edge, usually about 3 to 4 four inches to the...

I'll defer to Pete Disher... http://www.thecoralsnake.com/FogLight This assumes the same light was used on Shelby's and GT/CS's. I would think that "logical", but is an assumption and may not be correct.

No worries... have plenty of my own "senior moments", sadly becoming more and more frequent! :wink:

? I have seen reference to unpainted areas for dolly marks on the underside. My understanding was they were "saturation sprayed" from below, thus common drip marks on the underside, and bare spots where it sat on the dollys. Interior was hand sprayed, not dipped... never heard of entire body...

As the vast majority were C codes/C4's (over half), J/C4's added in make up about 65% a reasonable baseline to work to. In looking around when buying mine, solid drivers were pretty readily availbale in the $14k-18k (asking) range. As noted options will play a role. The one R code 4 speed...

For the door panels I use a plastic putty knife. Just carefully work it behind, and get real near the clips and gently pry them out. Too far away and they can rip out. Some use a screwdriver, metal putty knife or there is a "proper" tool, a "Y" shaped putty knife...

Thanks. That is a single exhaust car, correct? Since posting have found there seem to be two variants... have that type, but it appears there is a different version of the tie down for dual exhuast cars so may not put them on the S code.... and use them on the C code GT/CS instead..

Anyone have a photos of how they mount and the direction the loop hangs. Do the bolts go from the inside out or the other way? Washer on bolt head, or nut? Putting them on the S convertible.

Sticky would say two words... "Marti report". Only tell-tale that is 100% is the VIN. All else can be easily added. Can get a report confirming the VIN is a GT\CS in a day with a rush order.

They are close. Originals, at least as used on the Shelby's, which I am assuming are the same, did not have the 656 cast in them. And, yes, I run with them on from time to time. Often turn them on at dusk/twilight to be visible to other cars/bikes/pedestrians before headlights are needed...

I think they are a 52608 - Filister Phillips Type AB, #12-14 (odd size) 11/32" OD, 1/2"L

Pot metal buckets to the fibergalss tail panel, hidden when installed. The exterior bezel to bucket ones are readily available.

The body color is a crappy repaint by the PO.:wink: The only reference I have seen for these screws is in the Shelby drawings. 55962-S9. Which, oddly, calls out as an Oval head phillips, Type AB (fine thread) # 8-18, 5/16" (.292/.332) OD, 3/4" L. And are not called out in any way in the...

Yes, OEM Shelby parts are numerous and cheap! :smile:

Bought an OEM tail panel and OEM buckets. No screws to put them together. They look to be an odd part, did not see them on AMK's site, anyone know a source for the correct ones?

For a GT/CS, none I have ever seen. For a base '68 coupe (99% of the car) the Osborn Factory Assembly Manuals are available from pretty much any Mustang parts house...

The Branda ones are fiberglass.... found that out after ordering and shipping to Oz... :rolleyes: