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Unbroken originals are very hard to find. Good unbroken originals even harder. I don't ever recall seeing an NOS. I'd be scared to see a price on an NOS. One year only piece. The repros are very nice and work well, have them in my 68 S GT coupe. May replace them if I decide to risk giving...

Easily repairable if a replacement can't be found and if, like me, you like doing these odd jobs. Did the wire break at the connector or the connector come off the switch? If #1. crimp a new connector to the line, done. Unless its too short, then splice a extension in. You can then solder...

Agree on the on line aspect, but a Marti does not prove ownership. Send 'em a VIN and they'll send you a report.

8R01C156415 65A W 2U 15D 71 2 W Not in the new book, not sure if the registrars note these or not. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustang-coupe-1968-mustang-california-special-/200647750058?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2eb789b1aa#v4-40

PM me with email addresses for those interested in the rear 1/4 window install doc... article sent to John, if it can be posted here in a "tech section" happy to share it. My personal preference is to leave things the way they are, as much as possible, but to each their own.

Ouch... hate to see that "solution", similar, to me, to the owners that carve up the shock towers to get access to the zerks... But it is hidden. PITA to get to but once its cut it can never go back.... you "can" get to the quarter ornamnets with a long open end wrench, but its way awkward...

As one who is attempting a Mustang related book I can appreciate the effort... the time to research, write, edit and backcheck is staggering... It is a very good result and great reference for the hobby.

Pins are held by a circlip on the underside. Loose fit, without it they lift right out. They don't really "attach". Believe the base should be a stick-on to the hood, but some repros are rivited. Drill small hole in hood (if not there, not sure of diameter), larger hole in underside of...

it got older? :undecided

I've used the NPD, a light spray over semi-gloss black gave an almost perfect match to OEM parts off my '68 San Jose. It does require some "touch", I used 3 or 4 light coats from 10"-12" away over the SGB. Goes on "dry" and leaves some "fur". Let it dry, wipe with a rag and she's good to go...

Hmmmm..... Ford got it right. Odd! :wink: Love it when someone puts a 750 on a 289 because "bigger is better" and then complains it "bogs".... :rolleyes:

Done a bit of fiberglass, repaired convertible inner rear 1/4 panels, typical broken tabs, heater boxes, and some other non-car stuff, pretty easy to work with. Just looking for a process to repair as close to original as reasonable. And the easiest way to maintain as close to OEM shape...

Picked up a used OEM, never installed, rear tail panel. Has a couple damaged areas (a few large-ish pieces broken off the ends). I have an OEM on my CS/GT and am wondering if there are any recommendations for repairing to get "close" to OEM. Wondering if some mold process would be best...

By the time I order, buy and ship to Oz its generally not worth shipping things back... thanks for the tips, will talk to my "advice" resto shop on someone locally who may be able to do the nickel finish noted...

PO used a stock '68 once-upon-a-time for a repair. Have heard a stock '67 replicates the original CS/GT look fairly well. Any differnce in any of the vendors or things to ask before buying a "67" grille to swap out? Any other details to look at when installing it to get it looking close to OEM?

Not specifically realted to CS/GT, but "close", figured some here would know... Have seen reference to Marchal's on some early CS/GT's. I'm looking at a project and adding Shelby fogs on a 68. Know the Marchals mounted thru the grille to the bracket, not to the grille surrpound trim, not sure...

The ones on the car may not be OEM, but are faded in the flats due to wear. A new repro set is less than $100, not sure how sucessful one can be in getting the proper satin type finish, not sure if they are chrome or some other anodized coating.... costs here are high for chrome, assuming...

For 26k it should be pristine.... I was looking a year or so ago and saw multiple cars in very good condition for 14-18k... I can't beleive the market has improved significantly since then.... I'd suggest you shop around unless its the one you have to have....

As noted above, the window sticker would be factory, not dealer, options... in general. I would doubt the dealer would order a car, then guess what options a buyer may want and install them before selling... if they knew that it would be cheaper for them to get it that way from the factory...

yes, the cardboard covers.... PM sent...