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. Carburetor CFM Chart

Mosesatm

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Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,214
Here is a chart I created based on a CFM calculator on the web. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/CarbCalc.html

It seems to show that very few of us need a 600cfm carb and an Autolite 4100 at 480cfm is a great fit.

Efficiency = .83
Engine Size
200 289 302 390 428
RPM
1000 48 69 72 93 102
1500 72 104 109 140 154
2000 96 139 145 188 206
2500 120 174 182 235 258
3000 144 208 217 281 308
3500 168 243 254 328 360
4000 192 278 291 375 411
4500 215 312 326 421 462
5000 239 347 363 468 514
5500 264 382 399 516 565
6000 287 416 435 562 616
6500 311 451 471 609 667
7000 335 486 508 656 719
Carb CFM Required

The layout looks a little goofy so here's a .jpg.
Here is the equation
CFM=(Engine Size)(RPM)(VE)/3456
 

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CougarCJ

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Jul 17, 2006
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I am planning to use a 4100 on my GT/CS.
Already have one on my 1968 Cougar.

Thanks for posting Arlie, most gear heads don't understand volumetric efficiency. I think that is what it's called?
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Jan 18, 2005
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The efficiency number certainly does make a difference in the CFM numbers. Most stock engines run around .83 or so.


The calculator site says that mildly built engines run from .85 -.90 and that seems pretty close because a on dyno run my engine's efficiency varied from a high of .87 at 2600rpm down to .84 at 4500rpm, and my engine is fairly stock except for a mild cam.

Here's another site that shows results at the supplied efficiency and at 100% efficiency.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/cfmcalc.html
 

dalorzo_f

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Jan 7, 2006
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Location
Brisbane Australia
Hmmmm..... Ford got it right. Odd! :wink:

Love it when someone puts a 750 on a 289 because "bigger is better" and then complains it "bogs".... :rolleyes:
 

J.Bart

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Feb 12, 2003
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800
i have talked to Pony carbs in the past about the 4100's, they do modifications to
the 4100's, and get even better fuel economy and power over the factory setups.

something about swapping venturies from one model to another.
 

CougarCJ

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Jul 17, 2006
Messages
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i have talked to Pony carbs in the past about the 4100's, they do modifications to
the 4100's, and get even better fuel economy and power over the factory setups.

something about swapping venturies from one model to another.

I have one of those carburetors.

They take the 1.12" venturi 4100 carburetor, and they put in 1.00" reducers in the secondary venturi's. Basically they make them into spreadbores.
 

admin

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Aug 18, 2002
Messages
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Hmmmm..... Ford got it right. Odd! :wink:

Love it when someone puts a 750 on a 289 because "bigger is better" and then complains it "bogs".... :rolleyes:
Yup. I was one of those in my youth. Put a Holley 650 double pumper on a 390 and never could get it to run very well. I finally got so frustrated I slapped on a cheap parts store rebuilt carb (original Ford CFM) and it ran much better right away. Huh...I guess Ford did know what they were doing. :smile:

Thanks for the chart Arlie.
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Jan 18, 2005
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For those of you who are geeky like me here is the equation for calculating how much air an engine sucks in a minute, thereby limiting the carb size:

Max CFM=(engine size)(RPM)(Efficiency)/3456

3456 is the conversion from cubic inches to cubic feet (12*12*12=1728) times 2 (for a 4-stroke engine).
 

dalorzo_f

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Location
Brisbane Australia
One has to remember that carb ratings are based on a "standard" vacuum, which is rarely seen on the car. 1.5" Hg for a 4V, 3.0" Hg for a 2V, which is a static flow condion seen only rarely, if ever, on the car...

And VE's for stock are "normally" in the .75 range, abouve .8 is getting into mild rebuilds, .85 is farily high performance... even super-duper racing engines run .9-.95... so .85 is way high for a stock FoMoCo V8.

And if you are running flat out, your vacuum should be well below the 1.5" rated flow number, as low as0.75- 0.5, so the ratings get squirriley down there and more precise calcs are required to balance the build against the carb...

So a reasonable guide, but to be taken with a grain of salt (and a slice of lime and a shot of tequila!)
 

teamlo

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Jan 28, 2006
Messages
259
I have a Holley 575cfm Street Avenger 4V on my '68 302. It's likely too big for my application and would probably run better with an Edelbrock 500cfm, which I am thinking of trying. Stock Autolite 4300 that year was ~446cfm if I remember correctly.

I had a '74 Mustang II in 1985 that the PO had installed a 351W into. Played with carbs for a while and ended up trying a Holley 750cfm "3310" with vacuum secondaries. Ran terrible. Ended up ultimately with a Holley 4776 600cfm double pumper that had been tricked out by a friend. Even with mechanical secondaries, the thing ran AWESOME with a C4 and 3.25 gears. Pretty light car though.
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Jan 18, 2005
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Can a carb that is too large for a particular engine be made to work by installing smaller jets and adjusting the choke so the butterfly doesn't open all the way?

The smaller jets would reduce the fuel flow and closing the butterfly would reduce the air flow to match the reduced fuel. It's a Mickey Mouse way to get there but it seems to me it could work in a pinch.

Rob,
What am I missing?
 

robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
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4,322
Arlie,
More is better!!!

DSCN9576.jpg


More tomorrow on your question. By the way this set up is on a .030 over 289..... Trust me no bog!! and way more CFM than any 750 Holley! RVRtrash got to feel the fun!!!

Rob
 

rvrtrash

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Apr 25, 2003
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Hey Rob, did you ever get the upholstery on the drivers seat to lay flat again? :grin:

Steve
 

robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
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Arlie/Steve,
Why yes I did on the driver seat question. Although, your Shelby is like a freight train and the power just keeps coming. Impressive!!! And from a small cubic inch motor!!

All of the posts are spot on about “over” carbureting. Many a person has done this and a carb is just a piece of the total package. Gear ratio, tranny type, headers, cam shaft, car weight, and so on. I love to help people with a package in total that is designed with their ultimate goal in mind. And if this package is built over a few years a dollars are available, I like to recommend each step in a sequence along the way. And in an order of purchase and installation that does not degrade performance along the way. And with that, the larger carburetor can be one of the last steps. Trust me none of this is not known by Steve!! He knows this as well as I do.

To address the question of a larger carb and smaller jets it always boils down to one factor. A venturi size that produces maximum airspeed through the carb at, or near, the maximum torque of the engine. A stock 289 or 302 falls in the max torque from around 2,500 to 3,200 RPM depending on the 4 barrel or 2 barrel version. 302 cu in engine 2 or 4 barrel is right in the middle at 2,800 RPM.

Air speed through the carb at the proper RPM is everything. Air speed ensures proper mixing of the air and gasoline discharge. The venturi effect is what draws the fuel up and out of the float bowl. A larger carb with larger venturies will create slower air speed at lower rpm on these stock engines and create a noticeable “bog” at just the time the engine hits its designed maximum torque. The larger carb actually hinders performance across the board. Now I am talking about a stock engine and stock configured car with say a 650 to 700 CFM carb. Add lower gears and the bog starts to disappear a bit. Add other performance items and yee haa.

So reducing main jet size and only opening to partial throttles will help little. Main jet reduction may help a “bit” but the venturi size is the main factor. Slow air, poor gasoline atomization, at the wrong RPM, equals crap performance and poor gas mileage. And the large carb has a larger idle circuit capacity that drives you out of the garage with burning eyes. Bad all around.

The small 4100 Autolites and 500 CFM Edelbrock are my favorites on stock 4 barrel cars in stock configuration. The 1968 Autolite 4300 seems a bit more temperamental than the 4100, but still a great choice. A 600 CFM Holley or Edelbrock is a good choice if you have a a couple things like shorty headers or K code exhaust, and a mild cam.

Of note, Pony carbs had a neat little add on for the 4100 Autolight. They made some “slip in” plastic venturies for the primary side that increases the air speed even more than a stock 4100. Better gas mileage yet and a bit of tuning on the secondary produces the same performance with better performance across the entire power band. A great add on if you can find them. Pony is out of business I have heard. This add with a couple mods was a great upgrade that Pony offered.

Now the Weber’s on Val’s 289 are part of a total package with 13 to 1 compression and huge valves and intake and exhaust porting. Giant solid roller cam that coupled with the rest demands lots of CFM even at low RPM. Low gears and headers. And 7,500 RPM redline. The venturies (Weber calls them chokes) are sized for the application. Weber venturies are removable! This system with the 8 throttle plates about two inches from the intake valve produces crisp throttle response and low end power that rivals any big block. The ability to exchange venturies of different sizes is why the Weber’s were so popular back in the day. All aspects of the air mixing from emulsion tubes to main jets were accessible without removing the carb form the engine. Made them infinitely adjustable for altitude changes and different sized engines or bores and strokes. Pony Carbs used this theory above!!

Rob
 

rvrtrash

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Apr 25, 2003
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Nice explanation Rob. This is why, back in the 60's, tri-power's were popular. You had small CFM from the middle 2 barrel, for idle and just cruising around, and then as you needed more, the other 2 carbs would progressively come on. I had a Shelby Tri-Power with, IIRC, 3 325 cfm carbs, on a built up 302 and it humbled a lot of Falcon Sprints, Mustangs and the other guys. Oh yeah, it was in a '70 Maverick. :wink: For the guys in the "hot" cars, it was like being beat by a Pinto! It was a sad day when the car was rear ended and totaled while sitting at a stop light.

Steve
 

robert campbell

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Arlie/Steve,
Sometimes I think Arlie just baits me by bringing up “carb talk”!!! And I take the hook every time!!!

I wanted to say something more about the Autolite 4300 that was standard equipment on the 1968 J code 302 Mustang and of course, GT/CS. This carburetor debuted in 1967 to my knowledge. It started a run that went deep into the late 1970’s on almost every Ford engine with a 4 barrel carb. It mimics the design of a Rochester Quadra Jet 4 barrel that was common to GM cars in the mid to late 1960’s. Being a Ford guy it is hard to admit this, but I feel the Quadra Jet was about the finest offering for a stock muscle car of the era. I think it found its way onto the 429 Cobra Jet in 1971 on Torino's and Mustang’s.

The 4300 mimic the “spread bore” design of the Rochester. The 4300 has the primary throttle plates “spread” further apart than the Holley or Autolite 4100 of the era. Holley ended up offer a “spread bore” design Holley as a replacement for the Rochester Quadra Jet, but it is in a 650 CFM size that is a bit big for a stock 302. To my knowledge all Rochester's were in the 650 to 700 CFM rating as they came on 350 cu in motors and larger.

The 1967-1969 4300 is rated at 441 CFM and is the carb for the J code 302 . Sounds a bit small but what it has is a very small 1 inch primary venturi. This is coupled to a larger secondary venturi and throttle bore for performance. The small primary venturi size creates maximum air speed through the carb resulting in excellent throttle response and gas mileage. When in proper tune with the “smog” stuff blanked or removed it is my opinion that this carb is the best choice for a stock 302 J Code. They can work on a 289 also, but require the 1968 J Code intake manifold or an adaptor plate, or an aftermarket manifold designed with an open plenum or spread bore design.

Now if you have any power adders such as a mild cam or improved exhaust manifolds there is no parts supply to tune them for more HP. One could drill out main jets and such but this should be left to an expert tuner.

The one down side of the 4300 IMO is the float. It is a large horseshoe shaped float made of black plastic coated styrofoam. Coated styroform floats are common in all 2100, 4100, 4300 Autolites and even the Rochester Quadra Jet. These floats commonly develop a crack near the steel hinge piece where it inserts into the plastic float. They will then “soak” up gasoline and your float sinks allowing the float level to raise. This is the bane of many of these carbs and truthfully just a new float will solve about 90 percent of the woes an owner is experiencing! Owners bring in cars with gasoline spewing all over the top due to a sunk float. Many a Q-Jet was thrown in the trash due to this malady. And it is nearly impossible to discern a “partially sunk” float making the factor float level setting of no use.

When I rebuild any of these carbs I always install a brass hollow replacement float. IMO they are far more dependable and ensure a stable float level. The problem with the 4300 is brass floats seem to have disappeared from the market. This is a huge problem in my mind. If you are ever at a swap meet and they are giving away 4300 carbs, bring them home or ask if you can crack the top open enough to look in. A 4300 brass float is a treasure these days.

Rob
 
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