Any opinions on the value of my GT/CS

[1fb1gtcs]

Hi everyone, well looks like the time might have come to give up on my project GT/CS. Not enough time and space anymore. First though I wanted to get an idea what it might be worth now, most of the ones I see are already restored and go for 15k+, but mine is far from restored. I do think, however it is a good restoration candidate as it is a CS! Well it is originally Highland Green and still is, it is a c code 289, and is a factory 4 speed. Not much in the way of options, no A/C, no power steering, and drum brakes all the way around. It has it's original 4 speed console but it does need some repairing to be really nice. Some of the problems with the car are as follows: Drivers floorpan is pretty rusty, I will try to get some better pics of this when the sun comes out again. Not the worst I have ever seen but still ugly. The drivers side shock tower is cracked, a common but difficult problem in itself. It looks like the car took a hit to the passenger side at one point in it's life, quarter should probably be replaced. It also looks like someone backed into a pole once, the rear bumper is not straight, and also the fiberglass trunk lid is cracked and the taillight bezel is bent in as well. It is missing the passenger side scoop, but the drivers side is still there. Hood locks are also missing but the hood does have the holes and the radiator support appears to have all the hardware to accept new ones. Trunk area looks solid, roof has some surface rust. Original Lucas lights are there although 1 lens is busted. I have 3 or 4 replacements, I think 2 say foreign glass and 2 say England. All the seats are there, needs a dash pad though and carpet as well as kick panels. I bought some aftermarket dash panels, but I kept the originals except for the center panel, there was an equalizer there when I first got the car, so the dash has also been hacked there before. Right now car runs and drives, but is starting to overheat. It currently has a '73 maverick 302 in it, but I have the original 289 engine and heads, with the matching VIN # stamped into the block. Needs a rebuild though, been sitting forever. 4speed works good, but the rearend need new bushings in the leaf springs. Car needs help basically! Any ideas on what it's worth? (Have pics coming ASAP)

 

[390cs68rcode]

tough one.

wanna sell the console (as long as it is complete and in good shape) and the spare Lucas stuff? You can send me a pm through the site or email, click my name.

 

[Diesel Donna]

I'm interested in the England Lucas lights if you sell them and Jason doesn't need them as bad as I do.....:grin:

~~~~Donna

 

[1fb1gtcs]

Had to add pics in the gallery . My pics were too huge to add in the forum.
http://www.californiaspecial.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=69

 

[luisa2552]

I'm far from an expert on value, but your car sounds similar to mine. I have a no frills J code I've had almost 2 years. Doesn't have original enigine, although I can get it. It now has a 289, 4 speed (also Highland Green) We actually got it in trade for a retaining wall worth about $6,000. It had had some minor body work, but no rust and the interior was decent. Paint was ok, but fading. All we did was a major engine tune to get it on the road. I'd say values have gone up in the last couple years, but maybe that's a starting point. Anyone??

 

[Mosesatm]

After what just happened at BJ this weekend it's difficult to say, but I'll throw out of number of $7,500. Most of that is because it's a 4-speed car.

 

[1fb1gtcs]

Opened my box of foglights, wow I am surprised it's been so long! 2 say foreign glass, 2 say Made In England. Sorry if that messes anything up. When I looked at my CS the one foglight that is not as busted as the other just says England. Probably the original that came with the car, it is also cracked though and probably doesn't work. I collected a few of these for my car a couple years ago for just in case but I never did install them. If the car ends up being sold I'll probably want the new owner to get all of the parts for the car I have. Thanks everyone for your help thus far.

 

[Mustanglvr]

Man, she`s rough. That`s gonna take alot of fixing and replacing, but it`s worth it to save it.

 

[calspcl]

Are you going to let us know first if you decide to sell your car?

 

[1fb1gtcs]

Yes if it goes up for sale I will post it here first, right now I'm trying to figure out why it is overheating, I have the heater core out and bypassed, it has a brand new radiator and the timing looks good. I'm leaning on maybe head gaskets and see what happens. I kept the original FOMOCO radiator in the new ones box but it probably needs recoring. So not many people here are posting a figure of what they think it is worth, looks like so far I've seen around 6,000 to 7,500. Is that what the bottom rung is now for GT/CS's? I remember just a year ago or so I would see them from 4 to 5K for one needing restoration, but if it went up I'm sure we're all fine with that!

 

[Mustanglvr]

Ebay might get you 10 grand for it, you never know.

 

[luisa2552]

So now that mine is almost done at the shop (Woo hoo!:teleport: ) I wonder what I should insure it for? My insurance company uses American Classics for their collector cars. I've checked in with them and you pretty much name the price you want it insured for. I was thinking $15k? Remember, my car is no frills, lucky to have an AM radio kind of car that at the moment doesn't have the original engine, but its got new paint and interior and runs great. Am I too low now??

 

[case12]

I would guess $25k. It is all a matter of how much you want to pay the insurance company, and if they believe the car is worth the amount insured. I insured mine for $15k a few years back. But I should up it to $25k now. Mine is a plain 289 as well. Casey

 

[rvrtrash]

I have my fresh restoration J code with air at $25K. I think I need to bump it up some too. I just checked and I'm probably about $10K low on my Tiger also. Prices have really jumped the last two years.
Steve

 

[390cs68rcode]

change it to 32k! send a thank you card to the BJ auction when it sells.

 

[1fb1gtcs]

Hey if I jack up the rearend of the car and then spin 1 tire by hand and the other tire spins the same way does that make this rearend a posi or limited slip diff? I always thought that if you turned one tire on an open diff the other tire turned the opposite direction. When I decode the vin it doesn't mention a trac-loc or anything, but I also kind of doubt the previous owner did any mods like that. It's also a little strange that on the original engine there is a ford four barrel intake and holley carb. Since 289's in 68 came with 2 barrels it would seem that was also added, and it is a simple enough switch but again, knowing the cars past that seems like an unlikely swap. If someone can change a rearend and an intake manifold, it would stand to reason they could change a clutch when it went out rather than let it sit for 15 years! Any ideas how those parts ended up on this car, or could a dealer add those things on his own or at a customer's request?

 

[390cs68rcode]

i am pretty sure it means posi.

 

[Mosesatm]

If both sides spin at the same speed it's a posi.

Sara, my vote is for $25K minimum

 

[Diesel Donna]

I recently upped my coverage to 20k. They told me if I want to go higher than that, I have to get a written appraisal.

 

[rvrtrash]

If both tires spin in the same direction, it is indeed a limited slip rearend. I believe I read somewhere the term "posi-track" was a GM term, but everyone uses it to describe the same thing. There is also the Ford "Detroit Locker" that doesn't allow any slip, which is great for straight line but not so hot in the corners. Does your rear axle housing have a metal tag on one of the bolts holding the third member? Look on the intake for the casting number. If the Holley is an original Ford part, it will have a number stamped in the base plate, just in front of the throttle linkage. Both numbers will be something like C7ZE-xxxx. Let us know what the numbers are and we can give you a better idea if it's even possible a dealer did it. Another way to look at it though, is that unless you have an invoice from the dealer showing the work being done, you'll never convince a judge at a show or a potential buyer that it's original. If it matters to you, I'd find properly coded original parts while you still can and stash them away for the future.
Steve