Carburetor

[green56]

I had my carb sent out to a company in New Mexico and had it rebuilt it is a 2 bbl 2100. I am now having problems with it i can not get it to go on high idle the plunger keeps getting stuck sanded the piston down in case their were some burrs and still wont go in. Talk to the company and they wound not help does any body have any ideas to fix?

 

[mechanicalguy48]

Well. first off the piston your talking about is the "pull off" and it pulls the choke open not closed. That doesnt mean it isnt interfering but just so you know. You should be able to close the choke by winding up your choke spring,,,that is to turn it in the "rich" direction. That will bring the cam up and the choke closed, now the piston needs to be free in the barrell for that to happen of course. Is that not happening ?

 

[green56]

carburetor

Did the turning in spring but that did no good and the piston is still binding up to free it up you have to hold plate and push the piston free then it will work until you shut car off and leave it sit then it does not work do you think it could be in the linkage?

 

[TraveledGTCS]

I don't know if the auto-choke on yours is the same as on my Autolite 4bbl which works off the exhaust, but I had the same problems a couple weeks ago. My Special would not go into fast idle upon starting. I tried to move it manually and it acted as if it was hung up. When I took off the spring cap I noticed sand in the lever chamber, and the piston lever assembly was a little hard to remove. I didn't sand the piston, but I did use some metal cleaner on it and vacuumed the tube it went into (used a plastic tube at the end of my hand vac.) I then sprayed some silicone lubicant on both the piston and in the tube using a pipecleaner in the tube to insure full coating. I was able to accomplish this with the carb still on. It hasn't caused any problems since. Maybe this will work for you.

(BTW - I know which carb company you were taking about and I had problems with them also.)

Bill

 

[green56]

carburetor

we took off the heat tube it was a little dirty cleaned everthing up we did this about 3 times and put some real thin grease on piston and still have problem

 

[robert campbell]

When your car sits and cools down the choke spring will be “ready” to close the choke plate completely in the air horn. But the choke plate cannot fully close until the owner depresses the accelerator to the floor and then releases it. That is why this is described in the owner’s manual as part of a cold start procedure. The movement of the accelerator to the floor does two things. One it injects a stream of gas into the carb venturi to prime the engine via the accelerator pump. And two it moves the fast idle “linkage” stop screw on the right side of the carb away from the “plastic cam” with the steps on it. This will allow the choke spring to fully close the flap spinning the plastic cam upward and when the owner releases the accelerator pedal the stop screw on the fast idle linkage should now be on the “top” or fastest idle step on the plastic cam. Now when you look on the left side of the carb at the “curb idle stop screw”, there should be a noticeable gap between the end of the screw and the cast stop on the carb. Meaning you have opened the carb plates to a fast idle. Because of all of the above occurring I always press the accelerator slowly and deliberately to the floor and let it off somewhat slowly. A quick stab sometimes is to fast and not complete enough.

Let us know if the above is happening. You may even want to turn the choke housing a bit the “rich” side to ensure the coke flap fully closes. When full closed a choke flap can be opened with your finger with light pressure and then snap closed when released.

Next will be adjustments to the linkage if the above is not occurring. And then ensuring it unloads via the piston and comes off via heat (hot air like rob talking) being sucked up through the tube….. Lots of fun!!!

Rob