1968 Help with drum brakes

[jamoaus]

Hi all.

This might be a stupid question, but can anyone tell me how to get the studs off the drum brake housing? I’ve been wanting to change out the front drum brakes - it’s probably been a long time since they were changed and I can’t seem to figure out how the studs come off?

Any help or guidance is appreciated.

Thanks all!


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[Ruppstang]

If you are talking about the studs that hold the lug nuts they are pressed in.

 

[jamoaus]

If you are talking about the studs that hold the lug nuts they are pressed in.

Yes that’s what I’m talking about. So does that mean only a shop can do it?


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[rvrtrash]

You can buy an inexpensive press at Harbor Freight that will work, but it sounds like you're having trouble getting the drum itself off. It might be that your drums are worn and there is a ridge on the inside edge, keeping them from slipping over the brake shoes. There should be a slotted hole at the bottom of the backing plate with a rubber plug in it. If you put a brake tool (or flat blade screwdriver) in there, you can rotate the adjuster to loosen the brake shoes and the drum should then come off.

Steve

 

[jamoaus]

You can buy an inexpensive press at Harbor Freight that will work, but it sounds like you're having trouble getting the drum itself off. It might be that your drums are worn and there is a ridge on the inside edge, keeping them from slipping over the brake shoes. There should be a slotted hole at the bottom of the backing plate with a rubber plug in it. If you put a brake tool (or flat blade screwdriver) in there, you can rotate the adjuster to loosen the brake shoes and the drum should then come off.



Steve

Thanks Steve for the advice. I can actually get the drum off, just cant get the studs/lugs off the drum so I can replace with a new drum. The new drum comes with holes for the studs/lugs, just cant get them off the old drum. It sounds like from what I’m reading there are 2x options - 1) hammer the hell out of it and hope you don’t warp a stud/lug 2) take it to a shop with a press... but I cant imagine someone hasn’t solved this at home without the need for going into a shop and have it done.


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[J_Speegle]

Thanks Steve for the advice. I can actually get the drum off, just cant get the studs/lugs off the drum so I can replace with a new drum. The new drum comes with holes for the studs/lugs, just cant get them off the old drum. It sounds like from what I’m reading there are 2x options - 1) hammer the hell out of it and hope you don’t warp a stud/lug 2) take it to a shop with a press... but I cant imagine someone hasn’t solved this at home without the need for going into a shop and have it done.

Why not replace all the 10 studs with nice fresh ones rather than reusing the originals. Yes you can remove them at home and/or install them without a press but its a shade tree process. Install nuts on the end and hammer them out. To replace insert them in the holes up to the base then insert a spacer and a lugnut and tighten then till they are fully seated. If your hammering out the studs that is another reason (or you will likely need) to replace some or choose all to replace in the new drums

Should be easy to see the benefit or down side to either choice but both (press or shade tree) will work did it each way many times

You asked

 

[jamoaus]

Why not replace all the 10 studs with nice fresh ones rather than reusing the originals. Yes you can remove them at home and/or install them without a press but its a shade tree process. Install nuts on the end and hammer them out. To replace insert them in the holes up to the base then insert a spacer and a lugnut and tighten then till they are fully seated. If your hammering out the studs that is another reason (or you will likely need) to replace some or choose all to replace in the new drums

Should be easy to see the benefit or down side to either choice but both (press or shade tree) will work did it each way many times

You asked

That’s a bloody good idea! Honestly, you’re right. See, all I needed was a voice of reason! Thanks!


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[robert campbell]

I would advise pulling the axels. You will need a "slide hammer" that attaches to the axle on three lug studs. This way you can replace the axle seals and change the oil in the rear end. Leaking seals will ruin your brake shoes.

Once out you can hang the axle flange on a hard surface and hammer them out. Only takes a couple whacks with a big hammer. Replace them all.

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

When the axles are out also spin the wheel bearings. If they are loose or grinding replace them. Trust me, you don’t want to have a wheel bearing fail while driving on the highway, in the middle of nowhere.
A machine shop should press the bearings on and off.

If you have a vice, some heavy PVC or metal pipe, some sockets, and a little ingenuity, you can make a press for small tasks like U-joints, and wheel studs.

 

[Ruppstang]

I think he is working on front drums.

 

[Mosesatm]

Well shoot, oh well it’s good advice when he gets to the rears.

 

[somethingspecial]

Go to your local welding shop and se if they hand a 1 inch diameter x 4 or 5 inch long piece of brass. You can put that on the stud and hit it with a 4 lb. Sledge hammer. It only takes a few hits to drive them out. Reverse to drive them in. You can use a deep socket as a hollow backing support spacer when you drive them in. Been doing it this way for years, never had a failure. Just another suggestion for your toolbox.