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1968 Help with tire size !!

Mosesatm

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Jan 18, 2005
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9,178
Here are some of the subjective results.
 

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p51

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Rob, thank you! we will get to work on this! the car needs to be lower, nice we can save some $ if the springs will be ok, and I like cutting the coils instead of buying some.

P51, thank you for the tire input. Im having problems finding the BFG T/A's they dont make them anymore is what everyone is telling me. BTW what size are your firehawks?
Im all for staying on the road!

Sheryl

Sheryl

I currently have 215/70/14 Firehawk Indy 500's on the car. They are (IMO) both the right diameter to make the car's stance look good and right width to give it good traction (w/o making it look like you're on your way to the drag strip).

If I was also going to buy new rims I'd likely go with 215/60/15 (or maybe a 215/65/15) and the 1968 Shelby rims - which I think look awesome on the CS. I personally don't like chrome wheels >15" on a '60s car.

If you want to play around with different tire/wheel sizes to find the diameter here's a fun app that lets you compare different size tires - and it tells you how far off your speedometer will be with the new tires.

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

Cheers
James
 

robert campbell

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Sheryl,
summit has the BR's. I have been having problems finding the Firstones. Most Discount Tires have the T/A's


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BFG-64077/

Here is a pick of P-51's Firehawks on a "color painted" style steeel wheel. White letters not out. The fronts are are 215 70R14 and the backs are 225 70R14. This was at 25 inches high in the front and no probelms. When I dropped one inch to 24 inches they rubbed and these wheels have alot of backspacing. They did not rub bad, but backing out a driveway, fully cramped, and dropping through the road gutter/edge would make it rub. Or hittin a good bump going around a corner. I have a 205 60R15 now and they do not rub at all. I agree with P51. Fills up the wheel well and looks great! And they must be a hair softer than the T/A's They do grip better.

DSCN6376.jpg


Firehawks at the tire rack! getting very hard to find 14 inch tires in alot of sizes. 15's and 16's are much easier. That may weigh into your decision if you buy new rims.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&tireModel=Firehawk+Indy+500

BE careful what you buy until you get the height you want!!

Rob
 
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Batgirl89

Batgirl89

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Livermore, Ca
good thing I have you guys! :grin:
Arlie & Dalorzo, nice for me to be able to see the tire specs.
James, thank you for the tire size calculator,helped a lot. Rob the pics help too and I like seeing the cars.

here are the rims, so I was measuring them from the outside, which is wrong! they are 14" with no luck finding the BFG's, and the Firehawk Indy 500's sounding very good, my local tire guy can get them for me! 215/70/14
For $63 I ordered the 1" lowering coils. Rob I know you have told me to do the height before the tires, but are the 215/70/14 safe to do now? I can get them put on friday, get the helper springs off to see if we have a saggy rear or if they were put on there for the 235's tire on the rear right now.

front right end started squeaking last week too...so ordered parts for that also.
 

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Mosesatm

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It needs to be welded in. Is that something you want to tackle, or do you have a lot of money to pay someone to do it?
 

robert campbell

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Your tire selection should be just fine.

As Arlie said this is high end stuff. but very cool!! IMO there are other options to totallly upgrade your front end to rack and pinion and modern suspension, while giving you the option to free up more space in your engine compartment.

this is in the relm of deep pocket stuff!

Rob
 

franklinair

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Mar 1, 2007
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Sheryl;
If you'll PM me your e-mail address, there's a link I'll send you about the 'Shelby drop'. Lots of folks do it, and seem to love the results (stance & handling). No welding required. My limited computer skills:embarass: don't allow me to transpose it onto this thread.
Lots of folks here can be of more help in modifying the suspension. I'm a 'stick-in-the-mud' stock suspension type, although I did opt for 5 leaf springs on my CS.

Neil
 
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Batgirl89

Batgirl89

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it was nice of John to want the fancy stuff for my car. I'd like to keep the car more stock, I think the fancy stuff should go on a restomod and he's only use to welding tractor/farm stuff and pipe fencing on the farm, hasnt done any car stuff...yet. hehe

Neil I sent you a PM
 

robert campbell

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Neil/Sheryl,
I have metal templates for the Shelby drop of the upper control arms. They will fit in an envelope.

There are downsides to this mod such as tire wear and such. I think for a car not on a track road racing, that just lowering the stock stuff is the way to go IMHO.

Rob
 

franklinair

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I threw out the Shelby drop as a possible alternative. As for myself,I prefer pretty much 'stock' suspension.
I'll leave the suspension modification to those that have experience in this area.

Neil
 

Mosesatm

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It also requires drilling large holes in the inner fenders, leaving the original holes exposed, so if you're squeamish about drilling holes in your car just using shorter springs may be preferable.
 
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Batgirl89

Batgirl89

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I would like the info and to see how the shelby drop works (for educational purposes and maybe the husband wants it for one of his mustangs) but I'll keep the CS simple. BTW you guys are great!
 

Mustanger

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I would like the info and to see how the shelby drop works (for educational purposes and maybe the husband wants it for one of his mustangs) but I'll keep the CS simple. BTW you guys are great!

There's alot of info re the Shelby/Arning drop, and maybe some pro's and con's (potential ball joint wear-and-tear) ... here's 1 good discussion:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/classic-mustangs/331376-someone-explain-the-shelby-drop-to-me.html

It's also good to think about rebuilding/replacing some of the suspension components and getting a good alignment done while deciding on the Shelby drop ...
 

CougarCJ

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Jul 17, 2006
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I have been told that the 'Shelby drop' does not lower the front end of the car (much if at all).
On my GT/CS I installed used coil springs from a 1969 with 351 engine, which I cut 1 full coil. I have not installed an engine in the car yet, so I can't provide a picture of the stance. I should look similar to Rob's car in overall rake.
 

robert campbell

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Sheryl,
Here is the after shot of the 1968 Fastback after lowering it. It is now 24 inches from the floor to the center of the front fender opening. Cutting one full coil lowered it 2 inches. The front tire is a Goodyear P235 60 14 inch on the stock style steel wheel. Tire is 24 inches in diameter. The fender lip height was 26 inches before the lowering.

It looks great and is one inch lower than the back!

Rob

DSCN9469.jpg
 
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Batgirl89

Batgirl89

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Joe, the shelby drop on your CS looks good. Are you gonna get her back on the road again??

Rob, your 68 is sweet! looks really good.

my tires still arent on, I took it down friday and he said he would work me in so it wouldnt be ready till monday. 4 days to put tires on, really? needless to say, my husband was really pissed, we took it home and have an appointment wed, for it to be done that same day (even though we had an appt friday, and I had already dropped the rims off earlier in the week) hope they look ok, got 215/70/14
 
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Batgirl89

Batgirl89

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There's alot of info re the Shelby/Arning drop, and maybe some pro's and con's (potential ball joint wear-and-tear) ... here's 1 good discussion:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/classic-mustangs/331376-someone-explain-the-shelby-drop-to-me.html

It's also good to think about rebuilding/replacing some of the suspension components and getting a good alignment done while deciding on the Shelby drop ...

got all the standard front end stuff on order, car needs it, and your right, Ill get that alignment too.
 
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