1968 Joe's build thread

[joedls]

Looking good Joe! Knott's next year?

I should be able to do that.

 

[joedls]

3 days after I got the car home, my dad died. So I haven't touched it until today. Today I tore out the seats, the carpet, the upper console, sun visors, and headliner. Next, I'll install the new headliner so I can install the windshield and back glass. Anyone have any tips for me? Never done a headliner before.

Also, I couldn't resist putting something on the car so I put on the scripts on one side. I have officially begun!

 

[Ruppstang]

Joe first unfold the headliner and lay it in the sun untill hot. Then install the rods and hang in the car. I borrow Tari's laundry pins and stretch it in all four directions. I use Weldwood contact adhesive starting in the front center working both ways and replacing the pins when glued. When finished I move to the back doing the same thing but stopping at the corner. Then starting at the front on both sides moving rearward. The sail panel is the toughest part. Start by pulling down and hooking on the metal barbs then start gluing the front and back at the top. Work you way down pulling out the wrinkle's as you go. At some point you may need to add more down ward stretch at the barbs. When you are happy with it glue the bottom at the barbs then roll the hardboard strip and bend the retainers at the hat shelf. Minor wrinkles can be carefully worked out with a hair dryer. Leave pins on over night. Two tips put screws where they go for visors and coat hanger ect. so you can find them. Go slowly and do not trim too much off!
Good luck!
Marty

 

[robert campbell]

I get the glue from a local upholstery shop. They have it in huge containers and a will sell me a pint which is way plenty.

This glue is very forgiving. It is not permanent for a day or so. This allows you to pull it up in areas to pull or loosen to get out stubborn wrinkles. The sail or C pillar area is a PITA as Marty says!

Marty is right on as always on the method. He did not mention the two listing wires that anchor the back rod to the rear window lip. These two small wires anchor the last rod or bow so as you start in the front and pull all the bows stay where they should be and do not fall forward.

There are normally many holes in the roof for the bows to be a bit forward or aft. I always mark the hole that the old headliner used as I remove it. You may want to experiment with these holes for a better fit.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

I like my way better: I buy the headliner, window seals, and take it to an upholstery shop.

Neil

 

[joedls]

Joe first unfold the headliner and lay it in the sun untill hot. Then install the rods and hang in the car. I borrow Tari's laundry pins and stretch it in all four directions. I use Weldwood contact adhesive starting in the front center working both ways and replacing the pins when glued. When finished I move to the back doing the same thing but stopping at the corner. Then starting at the front on both sides moving rearward. The sail panel is the toughest part. Start by pulling down and hooking on the metal barbs then start gluing the front and back at the top. Work you way down pulling out the wrinkle's as you go. At some point you may need to add more down ward stretch at the barbs. When you are happy with it glue the bottom at the barbs then roll the hardboard strip and bend the retainers at the hat shelf. Minor wrinkles can be carefully worked out with a hair dryer. Leave pins on over night. Two tips put screws where they go for visors and coat hanger ect. so you can find them. Go slowly and do not trim too much off!
Good luck!
Marty

I get the glue from a local upholstery shop. They have it in huge containers and a will sell me a pint which is way plenty.

This glue is very forgiving. It is not permanent for a day or so. This allows you to pull it up in areas to pull or loosen to get out stubborn wrinkles. The sail or C pillar area is a PITA as Marty says!

Marty is right on as always on the method. He did not mention the two listing wires that anchor the back rod to the rear window lip. These two small wires anchor the last rod or bow so as you start in the front and pull all the bows stay where they should be and do not fall forward.

There are normally many holes in the roof for the bows to be a bit forward or aft. I always mark the hole that the old headliner used as I remove it. You may want to experiment with these holes for a better fit.

Rob

Thanks for the tips! I'll let you know how it turns out once I've done it.

I like my way better: I buy the headliner, window seals, and take it to an upholstery shop.

Neil

LOL. I can always do that after I screw it up but I at least have to try!

 

[Mosesatm]

Joe,
The sleeves for the top bows may be too long so you may need to trim them as you go. You'll know if they are too long because you won't be able to pull the headliner tight over the door openings.

 

[joedls]

It has become exceedingly clear to me that I am not going to work on this car. Between work, family, and other interests, I am just not going to carve out any time for it.

So, I need a good shop to finish the work. Anyone have any suggestions for a good Mustang shop in Orange County, CA?

 

[franklinair]

Send it to Rob in WA. He can do it all.

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

Neil,
How can you possibly consider unleashing the power of Joe and Rob teaming up on the civilized world?!!!

I realize Rob is your son, but if that kind of power fell into the wrong hands humanity as we know it could cease to exist, or be controlled by an evil overlord!

 

[robert campbell]

Joe,
Too bad you are not closer! Neil may be stretching my abilities a bit!!! But I have done more than a few interior jobs to include the fun Mustang coupe headliner and vinyl top.

In general, what is left to do?

I also have a high end Shelby restorer that is about 5 minutes from me. And he owned and restored the black on red GT/CS that the Red Hot Chile Peppers own or owned. He is a close friend and his attention to detail is awesome. He receives cars from across the country to restore. And he works for the same rate that I do. 40 bucks an hour. As you know I am not a concurs guy, but I have the full support of this site for any questions on it.

I do all the high end high performance tuning for him when needed.

Anyway, the cost per hour may be vary attractive to you. We both work out of a shop next to our house and only take on ONE project at a time. In his case when he sends them out for paint he may slip another small project through, but yours is painted.

Rob

 

[somethingspecial]

Personally Joe, I think Rob would be the right guy for the job. He understands your HP way of thinking and I don't think you would have to hand walk him through what you want. If you took it to a local shop in OC, you may have to do just that, hand walk that is. JMHO. Mike

 

[franklinair]

Arlie;
I am hoping that Joe could have a positive influence on my son. Or is it Rob could have a positive influence on Joe. Now I'm REALLY bewildered. What have I done?!

Neil

 

[robert campbell]

Neil,
You are a positive influence on all in our hobby. The results of your restorations stands testimony to one guy with a bunch of attention to detail!! Now keep in mind your attention to detail borders on OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder)!! A good thing for a mechanic working on your car to have!

Just kidding Dad.

Rob

 

[joedls]

Joe,
Too bad you are not closer! Neil may be stretching my abilities a bit!!! But I have done more than a few interior jobs to include the fun Mustang coupe headliner and vinyl top.

In general, what is left to do?

I also have a high end Shelby restorer that is about 5 minutes from me. And he owned and restored the black on red GT/CS that the Red Hot Chile Peppers own or owned. He is a close friend and his attention to detail is awesome. He receives cars from across the country to restore. And he works for the same rate that I do. 40 bucks an hour. As you know I am not a concurs guy, but I have the full support of this site for any questions on it.

I do all the high end high performance tuning for him when needed.

Anyway, the cost per hour may be vary attractive to you. We both work out of a shop next to our house and only take on ONE project at a time. In his case when he sends them out for paint he may slip another small project through, but yours is painted.

Rob

LOL at the thought of concourse! I just want the car to look good and go fast!

Everything is left to do! Trim, interior, glass, power train, wiring, suspension.

I'll give this some serious thought. I'd like to have it close to home, but I know you would do a great job, Rob!

 

[robert campbell]

When you say wiring, do you have the stock stuff or are you replacing it all? I just did a complete "classic upgrade" on a 1967 Firebird from American Auto Wire. The classic upgrade has a new style fuse box and circuits for electric fans, 3rd brake light, and a big group for accessories such as power seats and windows. Very nice stuff, but it is time consuming to put in. Especially when a Ford guy is working on government motors stuff.

This Firebird came to me in worse shape than you describe. It was painted and the guy who tore it apart lost lots of parts and through away all the factory fastners. What an idiot. He bought a March Pulley serpentine system and a complete exhaust system. These two items alone cost him $3k.

Anyway, out the door he was into me for 132 hours and $5.5k in parts. It came with a motor and tranny ready to go. He will drop $11k when he picks it up this weekend. I fronted all the parts.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

This could be "a marriage made in heaven", so to speak. Joe's CS, although not concourse is PRIMO. I couldn't think of a better combo than Rob resurrecting Joe's performance GT/CS.

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

Joe,
Are you reusing the existing drivetrain?

 

[p51]

Neil,...
...I realize Rob is your son, but if that kind of power fell into the wrong hands humanity as we know it could cease to exist, or be controlled by an evil overlord!

Hmmm... that got me thinking... horsepower... the force... modifications... the dark side... if the father/son roles had been reversed... Rob “restomod” as Darth Vader and Neil “concours” as Luke...

https://www.youtube.com/v/h6sj89xgnl4?start=65&end=146&version=3

 

[joedls]

When you say wiring, do you have the stock stuff or are you replacing it all? I just did a complete "classic upgrade" on a 1967 Firebird from American Auto Wire. The classic upgrade has a new style fuse box and circuits for electric fans, 3rd brake light, and a big group for accessories such as power seats and windows. Very nice stuff, but it is time consuming to put in. Especially when a Ford guy is working on government motors stuff.

This Firebird came to me in worse shape than you describe. It was painted and the guy who tore it apart lost lots of parts and through away all the factory fastners. What an idiot. He bought a March Pulley serpentine system and a complete exhaust system. These two items alone cost him $3k.

Anyway, out the door he was into me for 132 hours and $5.5k in parts. It came with a motor and tranny ready to go. He will drop $11k when he picks it up this weekend. I fronted all the parts.

Rob

I'd like to replace all the wiring while it's apart with an updated fuse box and circuits. That sounds like a helluva deal to me. I wouldn't ask you to front anything if I had you do it. I would like to pay you as you go, maybe monthly?

This could be "a marriage made in heaven", so to speak. Joe's CS, although not concourse is PRIMO. I couldn't think of a better combo than Rob resurrecting Joe's performance GT/CS.

Neil

I think you may be right. Anyone have an idea what it would cost to ship it back and forth?

Joe,
Are you reusing the existing drivetrain?

No. I have a dart block with a 363 stroker. I haven't decided on a cam yet. I'm going to re-use the Dart Pro 1 heads I have (maybe upgrade the valve train). I have a Holley 174 blower to put back on.

I'll probably get a Lentech AOD to go behind the engine, and maybe upgrade to a 9" rear end and 30 spline axles.