1968 Power Brake Booster Rebuild Recommendations

[BroadwayBlue]

My Power Brake Booster needs to be rebuilt.

I was planning to use Booster Dewey ( http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/ ) in Portland, Oregon based on a number of online posts/reviews including this site about their work.
I called awhile back to get info and they were very helpful and even asked a number of questions to confirm the booster is bad.

Earlier this week I called to confirm the info I had as we are getting close to taking the booster out to send for the rebuild and they are taking an extended vacation and not taking new orders until September 4th.

So I'm in search of another rebuilder.
I've been looking through Edmunds ads and online but would prefer to go with a rebuilder that someone has experience with. Preferably a good experience :grin:

Has anyone used a place they recommend?
A search didn't come up with too much on rebuilders.

Mike (somethingspecial) it seems you were considering a place
called Power Brake Exchange out of San Jose and Bell Gardens in CA a number of years back, did you use them?
http://www.pwrbrake.com/

Power Brake X-change in Pittsburgh is a long time Hemmings advertiser but don't know much about them.
http://www.powerbrakex-change.com/index.html

Another Hemmings advertiser is
http://rebuildersenterprises.com/index.asp

My car wasn't born with PB but it was added by a prior owner. A Midland style was installed.

I'm leaning toward rebuilding what's there now since I know it fits and works (or did) as opposed to buying a replacement unit.
Any thoughts on that?

Also some places don't seem to do all types and years either so trying to find someone that will do a 68 Midland type booster.

I'm going to search over at Vintage Mustang Forums too but wanted to check with our site members first.

Thanks and sorry for the long post.

 

[dalorzo_f]

So... whats the rush? You say "getting close to taking the booster out to send for the rebuild " so.... July, August... is there a deadline?

Booster Dewey does great work... used them many times.

Did you ask if you can just buy one and sell the core? They used to do that, maybe no more and as its an add-on has no "original" value to get the same unit back?

Or just buy a new-reman Midland from "wherever" and sell the core?

http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/brkboost.html

As for DIY rebuilding, yes it can be done. They are tricky to get apart, and once you find and gather up all the bits you may need you're getting close to rebuild money. No one seem to sell a kit, only piecemeal bits. Need to know what you need... one source here....

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Harmon-Classic-Brakes/Midland-Ross-Booster-Parts-/_i.html?_fsub=3660586017

Just a primary diaphragm is $115, so how much is your time/effort worth when you can buy a reman for $250-300 (w/core sent) and bolt it in...?

 

[dalorzo_f]

Actually just saw this, new to me...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Midland-...ang-1967-70-/361001758398?hash=item540d61aebe

$215 for a kit to DIY, vs $250/300 and your core for a reman! :wink:

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Waiting until September to send it in is a consideration but being in NY our driving season for these cars are limited. If I wait then I won't be driving the car until April of next year.

I store my cars for the Winter from the end of October until the end of March.

There's a big show we have plans to attend at the beginning of September for a long weekend and have already reserved a place to stay. Have to cancel 30 days in advance to get a full refund.

Also the car would end up taking up a garage bay during the Winter where one of our daily drivers would go if it's not fixed by the time I have to put it in storage. That wouldn't go over big with the Mrs.

So those are the reasons I'm checking into options other than waiting for Booster Dewey.

From what I have read online DIY isn't recommended and you need the right tools.

As for cost, Booster Dewey was $150 for a rebuild of my unit. With shipping both ways I was under $200 for a job done right and a 2 week or less turnaround.
I'm guessing come September the turnaround time will increase due to ramping back up after being closed for over 3 months.

I'm not sure about Reman vs rebuild. Considering it but I was curious to get thoughts from everyone which is why I started the thread as well as info on other rebuilders.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Ruppstang]

Rich,
I have used these guys a long time ago, they did fine.Power Brake X-change in Pittsburgh is a long time Hemmings advertiser but don't know much about them.
http://www.powerbrakex-change.com/index.html
Watch eBay they come up there all of the time. Or call some auto parts store you may find a Cardone one there. Just be sure that it is a Midlands not a Bendix.
Good luck
Marty

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Rich,
I have used these guys a long time ago, they did fine.Power Brake X-change in Pittsburgh is a long time Hemmings advertiser but don't know much about them.
http://www.powerbrakex-change.com/index.html
Watch eBay they come up there all of the time. Or call some auto parts store you may find a Cardone one there. Just be sure that it is a Midlands not a Bendix.
Good luck
Marty

Thanks Marty!

I looked around and found a few Midland style but most remanufactured units are Bendix. For the few Midlands I find they have the master cylinder included which I wasn't planning on getting. Was going to reuse mine to save some costs.

Rock Auto and CJ only has Bendix for example.
I found a Cardone on AutoZone site.
Advanced has a Midland. It says Wearever brand but description says Cardone. They want they want 4x more for the Midland vs the Bendix. About $100 vs $400.

Which leads me to another question. There are a few on the AutoZone site where they state the application differs
- with disc brakes
- With disc brakes, With automatic transmission
- With disc brakes, With manual transmission
- With drum brakes, With manual transmission

Do they differ based on the configuration (Brakes/Tranny)?

Have people had good experiences with remanufactured units?
I'm not worried about originality in this case.
It's more about fit and function.
I know my current one fits and I want it to stop.
Like to be overcautious with brakes (and steering). :wink:

 

[sportyworty]

Rich, I am using a guy in So Cal here. He is starting to get a lot of Shelby and CJ guys business now as well. He is excellent and comes highly recommended. Just did another Midland and Master for me last month. Never any issue and always on time. If I can help just ask

http://www.karpspowerbrake.com/

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Rich, I am using a guy in So Cal here. He is starting to get a lot of Shelby and CJ guys business now as well. He is excellent and comes highly recommended. Just did another Midland and Master for me last month. Never any issue and always on time. If I can help just ask

http://www.karpspowerbrake.com/

Thanks Kerry!
I'll definitely look into this place.

 

[Ruppstang]

Thanks Marty!


Which leads me to another question. There are a few on the AutoZone site where they state the application differs
- with disc brakes
- With disc brakes, With automatic transmission
- With disc brakes, With manual transmission
- With drum brakes, With manual transmission

Do they differ based on the configuration (Brakes/Tranny)?

Rich,
The boosters are all the same. The difference is when you sell it with a master cylinder they are different. The check valve has two nipples on it and the second one is sometimes used for the modulator valve on the automatic transmission.
That is the only sense I can make of it.
Marty

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Thanks Marty, that makes sense.

I looked back and sure enough the units that had the different specifications look to all include the master cylinder.

http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...KeyWord=power+brake+booster&fromString=search

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Ok I have a question.

We got the booster out of the car.
The place I am sending it to said if I included the aluminum plate (Spacer) they would check it out.

I noticed that there was no spacer installed in between the master cylinder and the booster. There was only a plastic gasket. That's the best I can describe it.

Searching online it looks like there should be a spacer, plastic filter retainer and filter.

My car didn't have these pieces just a plastic gasket.

Do I need the spacer and filter with retainer?

The car didn't come with power brakes from the factory, it was installed by a prior owner.
I'm thinking maybe it was a conversion kit that was already put together with the master cylinder and booster already assembled?

Any ideas? Would like to figure this out before sending it out for the rebuild.
I can't seem to find anything online or in my books.
Thanks!

This is a Fairlane one but this is what is missing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fairlane-19...-Master-Cyl-Aluminum-Spacer-Kit-/361046502472

This shows the spacer on the booster with this caption
67-69 Midland (clamp type) power brake booster
Note spacer on front of booster where master cylinder bolts on.
http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/booster69midlandoutput.jpg

This is the full page
http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/msFAQbrakepedals.html

Hopefully the links work. I'll try to attach pictures later, can't from the laptop I'm using right now.
Thanks!

 

[Mosesatm]

Rich,
I don't know which brand was on my J-code but here are some photos.

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Thanks Arlie!
It looks like you had the spacer.
I will post pictures of mine when I get home.

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Here are pics of my booster without the spacer. Also the plastic "gasket" and a shot of the master cylinder.
There is also a picture of how I think it's supposed to be with spacer, filter and plastic filter retainer.

At this point thinking of just buying a spacer, filter and retainer if I can find it.

I suppose it was ok without it so a little unsure right now.

 

[dalorzo_f]

West Coast Classic Cougar that posts here has the spacers. It will affect the throw of the rod in the MC. And as adjustment is to within a few thousandths in the Shop Manual, moving it the 3/8"-1/4"-ish the lack of a spacer does would seem an issue.

It also provides an air gap to equalize pressure on the diaphragms, as there should be a foam pad in the plastic spacer shown, again both sold by WCCC

 

[dalorzo_f]

Wow, they've gone pricey since I last bought one...

http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/...-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang.html

The filter is still cheap!

http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/...-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang.html

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Thanks, i did see them on the WCCC site.

I talked to Karps who is going to do the rebuild.

They said the spacer should be on there.
They recommended sending in my master cylinder along with the booster and they will make sure everything that's supposed to be there is there and make sure everything is adjusted properly as well.

That's the route I'm going to go. Seems to make the most sense at this point.
Not sure what was done by a prior owner for the power brake conversion. Best to make sure everything is in working order, especially brakes :wink:

 

[whodat]

So how did it come out? Is the last photo on page 1 the final product? What finish are the boosters suppose to be? Disc brake boosters from the factory came with the band type? Mine is a replacement product with no band.

 

[robert campbell]

the booster with the band was manufactured by Midland Ross. The one without a band is a Bendix version. In my experience the Midland version was on most 1967 Mustangs. In 1968 they transitioned to the Bendix style. But the parts store offered either version for years as a replacement for Mustangs. And 1968 was a weird year with the strike in the fall of 1967 and so on. I bet some Midland Ross versions came down the line in 1968.

I have seen some Bendix boosters with steel plates tack welded on to them to make them fit. If I was you, I would have what I got rebuilt.

I will let the others weigh in on this one. But never say never. Maybe some one has some literature on the change.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

I have the plastic piece if anyone needs it.

Neil