1968 Real Deal or Clone?

[LimeGold]

Ive got a super nice 65 coupe, probably a 20k car on a good day.

Ive also got a blank canvas 67 coupe.

Ive always wanted a CS, but I want one to drive, so I want disc brakes, EAPS, AC, AOD.

Ive got the thought of cloning the 67 into a CS. it is a 200/C4, and has a wiped cam lobe, so it doesnt run very well. Its a late 67 build, so it has a bunch of 68 parts on it like the steering column.

It needs cowl repair on the driver side and some work on the floor pan that IMO the PO replaced and didnt do a good job. Otherwise it is rust free. By rust free I think that the car was stripped and painted inside and out.

So do I spend 20k + on a CS, then spend another 5-8k making it into the driver I want it to be, or do I clone the 67 and be into it for less than 15k?

No concern on future value, I just want a nice car to drive, but I hate to modify or destroy a collectible vehicle.

Opinions?

 

[CougarCJ]

I would find a real 1968 GT/CS and make it a daily driver.
What is EAPS?, am not familiar with that acronym.
I think your $15k budget is only 1/2 of what you can realistically expect to spend if you want a finished car that is reliable.

 

[LimeGold]

EAPS = electric assist power steering. Ive got the car, engine and transmission, so I figured another 15k would get it done. Ive also yanked the 4 lug running gear and installed a 5 lug 8 inch and 5 lug power drum brakes all around. The interior was redone by the PO and needs nothing. When I do the EAPS I would also do a tilt wheel.

At the end of the day, its a CS clone that is the wrong year and Ive probably got close to 30k in actual money spent. At 60 years old, Im not going to sell it until I cant drive it and most likely my SIL will end up with it anyway.

I can sell the 67 for 8-10k, sell the 65 for 17-20k and buy a CS. Originality and a Marti report mean nothing to me. I dont buy cars as investments, I buy them to drive and enjoy. I just bought the misses a new Accord, that car will be long gone and the CS I clone or buy will still be around.

 

[franklinair]

As far as appearance, what you're describing is a '67 coupe with a ducktail trunklid & side scoops. You also stipulated the '67 needs cowl repair + the engine and running gear swap.
Lotsa work and $$. And for the same money you could have the real deal GT/CS. Or are you really looking for a project to do on the '67? If that's the case, I'd clone the Little Red Mustang proto type done by Shelby. That WAS a '67.

Neil

 

[LimeGold]

We all like a project to work on, but in reality, it would take me years to complete.

Ive had the 67 in storage for 18 months, thinking that I would swap in a V8. Ive got all the parts, I just havent got around to doing it, and Im retired, so work isnt in the way.

The 65 has been off the road since Aug. Im putting a new WP, Borgeson PS and an Ididit tilt column in. Right after pulling the WP, I was in a car wreck that sidelined me for 3 months, then I got ill for another 2 months, then the holidays ate a bunch of my time, so here it is Feb and Im finally finishing up that 2-3 day project.

IDK what to do. In any event, I have to sell something to buy a CS. Im out of parking spots and pay $100 a month for inside storage on the 67. Im not parking any vintage iron out in the weather.

 

[robert campbell]

I think I would finish the V8 conversion on the 67. It will sell for more if it runs and drives well. Real GT/CS cars come up for sale all the time. I bet you could get a nice driver for $18k to $20k easily. You will require a close up inspection of the car by an experienced person if you cannot look at it. I do this for free if it is close to me. Ok, you may need to buy me lunch! I am in the Seattle area.

I converted a 67 200 3 speed manual coupe six shooter into a GT/CS clone. It had the trunk lid and side scoops. Of note the side scoop area of a 67 is different than a 68. So repop scoops need to be reworked to fit. I put a front air dam and a 69 Mach I hood scoop on it. Did not put the tail lights on it and to me that is one of the coolest features of a GT/CS.

I found and rebuilt a 250 six shooter for it. And put a Ford Toploader 4 speed behind it. Of note the 4 speed fits right where the 67 3 speed Toploader fit. Same clutch, same drive shaft and yoke. A total bolt in!

Car still had 4 lug wheels and it was lowered a bit. If was a hoot to drive and the 4 speed just makes it fun!! The 3 speed manual really takes the fun out of these cars. The 250 is a nice step up in power next to the 200.

But I think you should move some items and get the real deal. They are out there and you can get on to drive an enjoy and not have a huge project. We can help you find a nice one. In fact if you post that you are looking I bet we can find one quickly.

Rob

 

[LimeGold]

Ive also got a rebuilt 250 longblock out of a Maverick and a set of unobtainable 69 Mustang 250 mounts with excellent condition rubber isolators. The C4 in the 67 is a reman unit with almost no miles on it. So, I thought about that swap as well. I like the six because theres a lot of room under the hood and maintenance is easy. A decent cam, compression, Weber 2V and exhaust will make a 250 Mustang scoot right along with the right gears.

I will have the 65 on the road in the next day or two, then it will go to storage while I get something done with the 67.

If the right CS comes along, I should just buy it and sell the other two cars. Ive always had 2-4 classics at a time and I just dont have the energy or space to keep that many cars up.

 

[robert campbell]

A stock 250 six shooter will amaze you with the power its has. A 4 or 5 speed manual would make it a cool driver. You say the 250 is rebuilt, so I would bolt that bad boy up! It will be a hoot to drive even with the C4. Little money to do this and a great car to drive or sell.

Rob