Productions date for Engine VS Car

[speedy02]

How far off would you think a production date on the block be off of a car that was built in 5/15/68.

 

[@Holmes]

2 weeks. The bin parts should all match. One of the first places to check is the date codes on the horns and the heads.

 

[somethingspecial]

What I found when restoring my car was the parts should be within two months of actual build. From what I heard, MCA looks for parts within two months. Engines are cast, machined, and built in Dearborn, so you have to allow for at least two weeks from cast date to engine build date.

The engines were then shipped to San Jose via rail, and assigned a car, which could take a couple of weeks from assignment to installation. Once the engines were assigned a VIN, it was coupled to the transmission, marked with the second rotation number, and awaited the car to make the second rotation down the assembly line. (Each car was assigned a Second Rotation Number, which was marked on the front of the chassis, or radiator support and also marked on the build sheets)

An early April build date of a car can have a late January engine block cast date. ie. 8A29 cast date, (Jan. 29, 68) to April 5th, 68 car build date. Of course, many cars were built faster than that, but as Marti reports can show, some cars were built as much as 30 days behind schedule.

I hope this helps. Mike

 

[robert campbell]

Do you have the original engine with the VIN stamped on it or are you trying to match a date code close to your build date? If the original is gone the closer the better, but the cast date code is hard to see unless you drop the starter or disassemble.

If you have what you think is an original block, then the sky can be the limit. In over 38 years of bleeding Ford blue on very original cars I have seen wide extremes. Some cars with very close matches (all within one month) to cars with 3 or more months in variances. Even cars close to the production year with cast numers from the prior year.

Rob

 

[case12]

Keep in mind that due to the 1967 UAW strike that ended near December, there were a lot of anamolies of part dates. In some cases it is believed parts were pulled from any place they could be found sitting around. Just a thought. Casey

 

[robert campbell]

Great point Casey!!

 

[Mosesatm]

Keep in mind that due to the 1967 UAW strike that ended near December, there were a lot of anamolies of part dates. In some cases it is believed parts were pulled from any place they could be found sitting around. Just a thought. Casey

That is also why 302 blocks were used in some C-code cars.

 

[speedy02]

The car does not have a engine. I am just getting a idea of what date code I will need to look for. The car came with a 289 but I am thinking of finding a 302 close to the built date and putting 289 heads on it. But thats just a idea I know I can not restore the car at this point in my live but would like to look for some parts for the day I will start. I know that I want to keep a stock look but would like to have more power than a 289 2v. I do have a 390 with a 4 speed out of a 67 fastback that I could use!!!!

 

[franklinair]

Take a look at all the posts on the adjoining thread "Trashed 289". Lots of ideas & opinions for engines.

Neil Hoppe

 

[PNewitt]

Hmmm....So....what we need to do now is obvious....

We need to post our (original) block dates, and our data plate build dates here from our ('68) GT/CSs.

We should have thought of this a long time ago. It would be (yet another) helpful-to-MCA effort, as well as fascinating data for us to know about. I'd be happy to put it into the book, too.

I don't think anyone in Mustanging has ever done this. This is the beauty of the internet--and having an enthusiastic group willing to do this type of thing.

This would include all the engines....and perhaps someone can post where to look for the casting dates on the blocks (6 cyl, 289-302-390-428) (just the numbers off our 428's would be very interesting!).

Dig out the mini flashlights and magnifiers, and let's see what we can come up with!

Thanks!!
Paul N.

 

[@Holmes]

heads: 8B2 - Feb. 2, 1968
Block: 8B5Y - Feb. 5, 1968
order: 01/31/68
serial: 02/06/68
buck: 02/19/68
build: 02/22/68

Paul, part bins are assigned at the the time the buck-2weeks as a general rule

 

[rvrtrash]

My car was built 5/15. I'll go out tomorrow and look at the casting date, but I've just spent 10 hours on planes and don't feel like it right now.

Steve

 

[franklinair]

I confess
I've never paid attention to build dates/casting dates proximity. Where do I look for the casting dates? This has peaked my curiosity, since mine is all original engine & trans.

Neil

 

[rvrtrash]

OK, mine is 8B23 (Feb. 23), and yes, you do need to pull the starter to see it. Luckily it's just 2 bolts.

Neil, it's just "above" the part number (C8OE-6015) behind the starter.

Steve (turning wrenches for the cause) :wink:

 

[franklinair]

OK, I admit it. My curiosity is not THAT strong. Since the engine S/N matches the car, the casting date seems to be a moot point for me. (I"m getting lazy in my old age!!)

Neil

 

[speedy02]

Wow rvrtrash thanks for all your information.

 

[PNewitt]

only two bolts away.

OK, I admit it. My curiosity is not THAT strong. Since the engine S/N matches the car, the casting date seems to be a moot point for me. (I"m getting lazy in my old age!!)

Neil

That's OK, Neil....you don't have to look...but, hmmm....

Nah, that's OK...

Well, was just wondering how you're not knowing that number, oh,well, might keep you up at nights, and it will nag you forever, until you look....

But, but...that's OK...you don't have to look. I mean, it's just two bolts away, and you CS would feel so much more "complete".

But that's just me....

(LOL--just pullin' your chain)

Paul N.

 

[PNewitt]

P.S. but don't hurt yourself looking. We want you in one piece for the car shows out here.

PN.

 

[franklinair]

I know, I know. I'm just a lazy, insensitive old goat!! And I've had no pangs of curiosity keeping me awake at nite! In my simplistic way of thinking, if the engine S/N matches the VIN, what difference does it make if the engine block was cast 1 day-week-month beforehand? Or am I overlooking something?
Now on the other hand - if I were suspicious that the engine S/N had been altered to match the VIN (which is do-able by the way) THEN I might want to check the casting date. But being the trusting soul that I am, I'll settle for the matching S/N.

Neil

PS
Don't anyone ask HOW. It's knowledge from a mis spent youth.

 

[rvrtrash]

Wow rvrtrash thanks for all your information.

Not a problem! I'm happy to help.

Steve