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289 was 9.3:1. ('68 FoMoCo Shop Manual) As for "how much more Hp.." wrong question. As most "Hp" is measured at the peak of the curve, its generally not used and mostly for bartop racing and bragging rights (how often to you run your engine at 6000+/-ish RPM?). And are you running a auto or...

Anyone got a few photos of routing? The NPD repro is so far off its not even funny.... bangs on the oil sender, then if you tweak it to clear that runs right thru the distributor... ends up 6" in front and 4" above the carb. Unless they sent a mismarked part, no way its going to work...

Look like a Galpan (et al) Paisley custom vinyl top. Interesting about the screws in the trim strips....????

Not 100% sure, but have seen quite a few 68's with the spatter, not plaid, trunk mat. The one in my (basically) one owner GT/CS has the burtex spatter the sure looked like it could have been original...

+1. Have a couple with the FoMoCo ink stamp on the backside... look just like the pic...

I'm not sure which I hate more... under dash issues like this, or chasing electrical gremlins.... You "can" do if from the side with the door wide open...

Yep. There are two versions, manual and power. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/switch_brake_light_motorcraft-101754-1.html http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/switch_brake_light_original-101755-1.html A bit tricky to get on and off. If OEM installation unplug it, a spring clip comes...

Ford Shop Manual and the FAM are about as good as it gets. As there was no electric choke from the factory, you'll have to find another switched hot lead to connect it.

Item 1 (and 29, same just reworded) has been around for 40+ years, or more... my dad (author and "researcher") used it on me in the 60's... doubt Mr. Wright coined it at 12 years old! :wink:

Yep, its usually one of the single clip ones... hard to see the colors on the wiring in the photos...

And AC would matter as you need to get the feed wire to the compressor.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/images/1973_full.pdf

IMHO if you go for discs use one of the OEM style kits available. While "small" and "low tech" compared to many of the Wilwood, etc aftermarket setups, they will bolt in with no issues and work very well for normal driving (as do properly maintained/serviced drums)...

IIRC they are a oval head stainless screw. The head size is pretty critical, at least it was on mine, as putting them back on there was just a hairs breadth of room to get the head into the depression without scraping the sides and dinging the paint... I think AMK has them, but I'm on the road...

http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_emblem_wheel_cover_center_gt_hubcap-101169-336.html

Guess mine was mis-wired in the past. Point on the switch was it is not a separate item, but internal to the assembly, it can't be replaced... saw another post a while ago of someone looking for the mercury switch, which doesn't exist as a separate item...

Nope, no Mercury switch on the originals. Common misconception. Had to have the door open and it was wired into the dome light circuit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1966-1967-ford-mustang-fairlane-galaxie-14-inch-wire-spinner-hub-caps-/111358106785?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ed75dca1&vxp=mtr#ht_59wt_1120...

Ebay is your friend...

Funny the red/orange one does not show the front. Has the twist locks, but can't tell about the fogs. +1 on the prices... but nice looking cars... I'd say neither is worth over $11-14k as a slightly modifed good condition coupe. Not sure who would have appraised the blue one at $25k... OK...