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David, I found the guys at Steeroids to be very helpful, I'm sure they will make suure you get up and running safely. The instructions are good and the install is not difficult. Since you have the opertunity and ability to do so. Definitely install your R&P first, then your engine and then...

I too have a 351W in my car. I have hedman full length headers and Steeroids R&P set-up. I used adjustable motor mounts and had to notch the passenger side R&P mounting bracket for header clearance. Using a different brand header may have alleviated that issue, don't know. I already had my...

My subframe connectors were both. The rear bolted in place and then the front needed to be welded. I welded both ends front and rear to the frames for strength.

Thanks Y'all, Two in one month, how bout that!

Marty, I installed sub-frame connectors which covered the holes. I didn't need to address that issue. That said, if they were accessable, I would have found the right size plug to fit the hole or used the originals. Mine are old but I may still have them if you want them. I kept almost...

Here is a photo I took before I restored my car. I am pretty certain that it is a stock original part as it had the same color and hardness as the rest of the plugs on the car.

How cool it that, Thanks for posting.

Here is the final detail photo. It went back into the car today and we were able to move the total rear end under the car to center it between the wheel wells.

http://californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7202 This should help a bit

As said earlier, check your thermostat. Change your fluid using distilled water, antifreeze and water wetter or similar and see what happens. You might also install a thermometer cap to have a second source of measurement. It is possible your engine is fine and your gauge went bad. I have one...

Thanks Marty, I'll post a photo when I'm done. Can you tell me if on all 9" diffs the rubber bumper (square pyramid looking bumper) is mounted on the yoke cover? On my original 8" the rubber bumper was attached to the car, not the diff. Cheers

I believe I think what they are really telling you is that they don't want to do it. In the long run I think you will be happier with a single meter and a lower electricity bill.

Can anyone recommend a rattle can type and color that comes close to the red oxide and cast/natural gray for the diff 3rd member and yoke parts? Cheers, Bill

You are correct :) Fortunately, I have many years to go Unfortunately, I have yet to save enouph money for as long as I plan on living If so, I would be all over the retirement option.

Halogen headlights Disk brakes LED rear lights 3 point seatbelts High back bucket seats (front and rear) Passenger side mirror Drive shaft loop Front and Rear sway bar Trunk sheild And not listed above Third brake light

First thing I would do is make certain your thermostat is opening. Put it in a pan of water and put the fire to the pot. Use a ccandy thermometer and then you will know when and if it is opening.

Thanks David, that's what I needed Thanks Rhonda, I've finally figured out what I want to be when I get old... Retired. Unfortunately I still have quite a few years to go.

Hey all, I just pulled the rear end out of my car and want to detail the differential while I have it out of the car. Does anyone have a good detail photo of what an accurately restored 68 mustang 9" chunk looks like? Is it the same as this 8" (photo attached)? The photo of the 9" outside the...

Mines on the back window lower-right hand corner

It will be 4th of July weekend before I will have a chance to work on my car. I already tried tightening the nut between the can and the high pressure hose and that didn't change the leak at all. I'll try the rebuild Rob pointed out. Can you get the front and can parts apart without a vice...