New GT/CS Owner - Need some engine help

[dpheyes]

I just "inherited" a complete, running 68 GT/CS!!! Actually, I convinced my Dad that he needs to buy a new one and give me his old one!

Anyway, it is all original except for the engine/carb. He tells me that the original, correct engine is a 302 4 barrel, but it has a 351-W 2 barrel.

Sooo... I need some suggestions on getting an authentic rebuilt engine for this. I believe he told me it needs a "J" code engine, but I'm not sure what all that means. I want to keep it authentic, but wouldn't object to a semi-performance engine if it is OK collector-wise.

Any suggestions gratefully accepted!

 

[Mosesatm]

Doesn't someone on this site have a J-code long block for sale?

 

[Mustanger]

Welcome and congrats!!

You have a great car and some great opportunities to make it an even greater car ...

If you want to restore it to concours/factory correct, then you'll have to look for a J-code motor: a 1968 302 4v (check for proper cast markings) ...

If you want to go resto-mod, then keep the 351W, go to a 4v carb, and some will argue that you could even disguise that powerplant to make it kinda look like a 302, but with more power ...

But another option would be to build a 302 with Shelby go-fast goodies (Cobra alum manifold, 4v Holley, hi-po manifolds ...)

... you have a lot of options to choose from ...

 

[Mustanger]

Doesn't someone on this site have a J-code long block for sale?

... you're right, Arlie:

http://www.californiaspecial.com/forums/t3857-jcode-long-block-and-intake-8r162127.html

 

[dpheyes]

Thanks,

I want to keep it factory correct, but since I will have it in Alaska (garaged, of course), I'm not interested in a full-blown Concours restoration, just nearly so! :wink:

My Dad uses it as a daily driver, since he also has a concours quality 65 convertible already. It is low miles (under 80K, I think) but the 351 was not in great shape when it went in, so it needs replacing anyway.

So, the bottom line is - I need a J code long block and a matching 4v manifold.

 

[dpheyes]

I found a rebuilt online with this info:

(i) engine block casting C8OE-A C8TE-B C8AE-B D1MZ AA
(ii) crank casting 2M
(iii) head casting DOOE D2OE C8AE-J

Would this be the right engine?

 

[Mustanglvr]

Hey! Welcome to the site Dpheyes!
First of all, make sure a J code engine is what you need. Make sure there is a J in the vin number. Also, is your car in the registry yet? Registrar, Paul Newitt has a new registry book coming out and if you hurry, you might still get it included before it hits the press. I can find his address for you so you can send him your information.
Please post your Marti report. We all get a kick out of reading those. There is a thread here dedicated to that. Again, welcome to the GT/CS family!!!

 

[RichardAaliyah]

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[rvrtrash]

I found a rebuilt online with this info:

(i) engine block casting C8OE-A C8TE-B C8AE-B D1MZ AA
(ii) crank casting 2M
(iii) head casting DOOE D2OE C8AE-J

Would this be the right engine?

First, it would have to be a C8 casting. Nothing that starts C9 or anything with a D would be correct. A crank with 2M stamped in it would be correct. On the heads, the suffix (i.e. "J") denotes specifics about the head, usually the size of the combustion chamber and whether it is open or quench heads. If I recall, mine was an "F" and had the small 52CC heads. I can go out and look at my block on Sun. and give you the casting from it, if someone doesn't get you the info you need first.
Steve

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Welcome to the site dpheyes! Good luck with the car sounds great. We LOVE pictures!!

Can someone explain what you mean by a "long block" ?

And please don't tell me it's the opposite of a "short block" ...

 

[Diesel Donna]

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Remember to let her into your decrescendo, then you can start to make
it low.
Primmest David Baker maliciously daydream her miracle and late
spotlight a short-handed ebulliency.
I'm not interested in a lubricious obeseness. Give me a judicious asset
that reutilizes indulgently any day.
Loi Phan pretentiously took clearer and old Cathy Hulbert and peal the
quinquina.holdem poker strategy

My quarry ingulf bridle, conspectus, and to ensorcell protomerite
Dmitry Savelyen

WHAT THE ****????? LMAO!

 

[Midnight Special]

Welcome to the site dpheyes! Good luck with the car sounds great. We LOVE pictures!!

Can someone explain what you mean by a "long block" ?

And please don't tell me it's the opposite of a "short block" ...

..."Long Block" means the heads are installed...

 

[C160223]

Welcome to the site dpheyes! Good luck with the car sounds great. We LOVE pictures!!

Can someone explain what you mean by a "long block" ?

And please don't tell me it's the opposite of a "short block" ...

short block = block, crank, rods & pistons

long block = block, crank, rods, pistons, cam, heads and valvetrain

 

[C160223]

I found a rebuilt online with this info:

(i) engine block casting C8OE-A C8TE-B C8AE-B D1MZ AA
(ii) crank casting 2M
(iii) head casting DOOE D2OE C8AE-J

Would this be the right engine?

you need to look for a block with a casting number of C8AE-6015-B or C8OE-6015-A. Either block will be correct and should have been cast within 2 months of your cars actual production date. Crank will be marked with 2M. Correct heads for a "J" code will have a C8OE casting with 302 68 marking on the bottom side of head and 302 & 4V cast on the top side visible when valve covers are removed. 4V intake will have a C8ZE-9425-A casting and again should have a casting date within 2 months of cars production date. Carbs were Autolite 4300's. Part # are C8AF-AS for auto & manual trans cars, C8ZF-C for manual trans cars with T/E (thermactor emissions) and C8ZF-D for auto trans with IMCO (improved combustion control system)

If you want a correct "J" code engine for your car , I recommend you getting a copy of Bob Mannel's Mustang & Ford Small Block V8 1962-1969. It is an excellent book with very detailed information. http://www.fordsmallblock.com/

 

[rvrtrash]

Glad you had all the info John. I had some extra time so went out and looked and couldn't see any of my casting numbers without taking parts off.

I also wanted to correct my earlier statement about the suffix in the head number. I was thinking in terms of '68 302 at the time but didn't want to mislead anyone. The suffix, in conjunction with the first 4 characters, can/will denote engine size, combustion chamber config., thermactor or not (manual or auto trans.), valve train config, etc. Hope I didn't confuse the issue, but didn't want anyone to misunderstand what I was talking about.
Steve

 

[dpheyes]

Thanks John, Steve, and all the rest!

I think I'm well on the way to getting this solved now. I have found several professional rebuild companies that can supply a long block with the right numbers if I'm patient.

Does anyone know what the original engine HP was with a 302 4V? I'd like to have one built with more power, but still be correct.

I'll post some pictures as soon as my dad gets them to me (I'm in Alaska, the car is in Tucson). I'll also get the details into the registry and get a Marti report to post. I was told that it was bought from a Phoeniz dealer and spent most of it's life in an eastern Arizona town. When my dad bought it about 10 years ago, it had been sitting for almost 10 years.

What I do know is that it is all red, no vinyl top. Parchment interior. GT options. Currently is 351 2V (from a 72 Mustang), should be 302 4V. Has manual transmission. Don't know what rear end. 4 wheel drum brakes, no power steering. Has complete sets of both types of wheels. Only needs one hood lock and the pressboard cover that protects the taillights inside the trunk. And the original radio works!

I'm having my dad schedule it for a complete paint job. It was originally red, repainted yellow, then repainted red again. I'll have it fully stripped and redone. The paint guy in Tucson is a favorite of the local Mustang Club and he did a fantastic job on my dad's 65 convertible. It may take a while, since he is in high demand.

My hope is to have it all done in time for it's 40th birthday!

Thanks,
Doug

 

[68gt390]

Thanks John, Steve, and all the rest!


Does anyone know what the original engine HP was with a 302 4V? I'd like to have one built with more power, but still be correct.

Doug

If you want to keep it as close to original as possible and still have some power out of your "J" code motor, throw a 347 stroker kit at it. It will give you plenty of power and then some. David Athens can guide you on that.

Hey David you out there!!!!!


Don :grin:

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Does anyone know what the original engine HP was with a 302 4V? I'd like to have one built with more power, but still be correct...

I think the original HP was 215. Can someone confirm that?

 

[dpheyes]

I have posted the pertinent info on the registry now.

BTW, I'm told that the original 302 4V was 230 HP.

 

[Mustanglvr]

Make sure you still send your information by mail to Paul Newitt so it can be included in his registry book. He needs a copy of your Marti report, pictures and story about your GT/CS.