What is a '68 GT/CS Worth?

[BroadwayBlue]

We had a thread awhile back and I was watching the NADA prices. They went up back in January and look like they went up again now. I think they update their prices quarterly but that's just a guess.

Just found that old info ... here are the prices from a year ago (5/16/07) and from January 2008 and today. These prices are for a 289 with no A/C


Here are the NADA prices I posted in a thread on 5-16-2007 followed by the prices from January 2008

Muscle Car

1968 Ford Mustang California Special 2 Door Hardtop

As of 5-16-2007 they were at

Low Retail Average Retail Value High Retail
$9,300........$16,500..................$32,800

As of 1-3-2008 there were at
$9,750........$17,300..................$34,400

As of 5-6-2008 they are at
$10,750........$18,300................$37,200


1968 Ford Mustang High Country Special 2 Door Hardtop

As of 5-16-2007 they were at
Low Retail Average Retail Value High Retail
$8,800.......$16,100..................$29,300

As of 1-3-2008 there were at
$9,250.......$16,900..................$30,800

As of 5-6-2008 they are at

$10,200........$17,900................$33,300

A note about NADA prices from their site:
This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.
* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.

Might have to consider increasing my insurance - currently it's valued at $35,000 and that was based on the prices back in May of 07.

 

[hcsstang]

Just wondering what the price of gas will have on the antique car situation? Time will tell.

 

[Mustanglvr]

Would a T code with upgraded suspension and 289 4v motor with 4 sp tranny (like mine), make it worth more, than if it had the original 6 cyl. in it and no upgrade?

 

[case12]

Would a T code with upgraded suspension and 289 4v motor with 4 sp tranny (like mine), make it worth more, than if it had the original 6 cyl. in it and no upgrade?

Almost certainly yes.

There are those out there who want a T code (I wouldnt mind having one), but they can find those easily enough. Adding the bigger engine gives it a higher price for most people. Casey

 

[DeadStang]

Almost 3 years ago, I sold a 100% original paint/interior, 100% rust-free, 78K mile (documented) J code non-GT (VIN-stamped C-4 rebuilt w/zero miles) for $6000. It did run, but did not drive (non-original block, original heads; rebuilt and replated by Pony Carbs original carburetor; the VIN stamped block was trash). All fiberglass excellent with original Lucas lights. (Big time seller's remorse here!)

Last summer, I sold a low-optioned C-code/C-4 for $12K and was lucky to get it. Car was in good shape--minimal rust (a couple of bubbles), ran and drove excellent. Paint was very good, interior in decent driver condition with an interior color change. All fiberglass excellent with original Marchals. Engine compartment not stock and "restored" poorly.

 

[68gt390]

I really don't put a lot of faith in NADA or any other typical pricing guide. As has been said before it's what someone is willing to pay. With that said, my insurance company has my CS, "S" code, 4 speed (now with a 428CJ) car insured for an agreed upon value of $60,000.00. This agreed upon value was reached by their own folks taking photo's and personally inspecting the car. Since these folks are professionals they must know something. All I know is I personally would not sell my car for any amount below $45,000.00 just based on what I have invested. The fact that my car was the car used in the making of the diecast model holds sentimental value to me and how do you put a price on that.

Don

 

[@Holmes]

Remember this driver quality S code that went for 22,500?http://californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5780&highlight=nada Still thinking about it b/c I think we can all agree it was worth more - IMO 27k range

 

[clubpro]

That car was an X code which made it even rarer and it should have gone for a lot more. The buyer contacted me and said that it was in very good shape.
A great buy for him.

Cheers,

Ron

 

[@Holmes]

Neil
Here is some J code values (non AC) currently at $11,825 $20,130 & $40,920

 

[franklinair]

I'm really fortunate to have found the GT/CS that I have. It is truly a square & righteous car. Everything is dead on correct, thanks to the previous owner that did the resto. Color, matching #'s, everything o'hauled/rebuilt. I could put this in an MCA judged show, and come out very nicely. I just can't seem to get my arms around a value for a C/S as compared to a regular production '68 coupe equally equipped. I understand the limited production numbers & relative rarity (pedigree, if you will) play into the equation, but WHAT is that value? Big blocks, Fastbacks & manual transmissins are a whole different ballgame. And this is evident in regular production Mustangs' current selling prices.
As satisfied as I am with my CS, I feel in my heart it is not to be valued at more than $30K, regardless of all the professional evaluations offered by OCPG, NADA, etc. But that's just me. (If anyone wants a primo example, bring $30K and drive this puppy home!! I'll find another for $15-20K and resto IT.)
Soapbox finished.:undecided

Neil

 

[Midnight Special]

...Seems to me that although there are guidelines; the actual "worth" is governed as much by owner intent and "right place at the right time.

I have paid on the high end for some and had super deals on others, but their true "worth" has always matched my intent...

*To drive and enjoy while maintaining optimum.
*To show socially to many vs religious concours to few.
*To become educated in all aspects of the type and applying that to the best possible return of the original investment when that time comes.

The experience of owning and sharing the CS has provided a definite "era" within our family and friends that has become priceless. Therefore, I believe "worth" is a very individual thing, IMO...

 

[johnsgottwo]

Tim you are sooo right

I agree Tim - value is such a nebulous thing. I know that there's a difference between the value guide value of my car, and what I would consider selling it for. What confuses me at times though, is the apparent reluctance of some people to consider the GT/CS to be a true collectible. In the end, whether you plan to keep your car forever (as many of us do) or you're just hanging on long enough to sell it for a profit, we all benefit from a healthy market. Eventually we'll get to the right price level, but we're not there yet. Right now there are still enough rough cars around that people can get them for $10-$15K in drivable condition. Many of these cars will get passed around, often suffering half baked "restorations" that really only make more work for people trying to get it done right, and gaining a few dollars with each re-sale. Fewer will be properly restored and kept, while fewer still will be restored properly and resold at a profit. The GT/CS will have coome of age as a collector car when the market value of a concourse restored car exceeds the cost of doing the restoration. Right now it's still a buyers' market for average condition cars.

Oh yeah, for Paul's info gathering, I got my CS a few years ago for $15K+ with a completely rebuilt and detailed engine and tranny, faded paint, and a rough interior. Since then I'm in for about $6K mostly in paint and a new AC system. I figure I still have a couple thousand to go to complete the restoration. So I'm in for just shy of $25K for a car that NADA puts close to $45K (289/4sp/AC just shy of high value). On e-bay or in the Trader my car might get me $30K, but that's the wrong venue for a restored collectible. If I were to sell it I would take it to a targeted auction, and then the NADA value would be more realistic.

 

[PNewitt]

This happened the last time we talked about values...

That is, the point of my starting this thread wasn't meant as a threat to ownership. But I understand. Any talk to some about money and value can sound like: "sell'. I hope I didn't ruffle any feathers by the question. It was purely with practical intent.

Finding a good value for each type of GT/CS was not only meant as a guideline for buying, but mostly for reasons of insurance, and any equity an owner may wish to be aware of.

I don't think that "personal value" should be limited to any particular condition of the CS. You can't place a "value judgement" on concours, nor any other condition for that matter (proven by the wide differences of condition at the GAS and Knott's show). Mike Jewell's Gold Award Concours GT/CS is just as loved--if not more so than any daily driver around (it got to be restored because of the love for the car--not to become a value judgement against others). I know that ownership is, and can be an emotional thing (been there, felt that myself).

I hope that we can arrive at some good numbers soon to work from for all kinds of reasons, not limited to "selling".

thanks,
Paul N.

 

[johnsgottwo]

And it gets more complicated

Well, to add to the confusion, it seems that instead of "a" market value we have to deal with multiple markets. For example, any given CS will be likely be valued at one level by the buyers on e-bay, a different level by informed private parties (like most of us in the forum), and still differently by auction house collectors. So, maybe we can't really get any more precise than the NADA guide, with the understanding that they are retail prices that assume a certain amount of dealer prep, and include auction sales in their calculations. While that puts their prices in the third category listed above, that market is a little less volatile than the private party markets, because the condition of the cars is more consistent and you don't see "must sell" sellers.

 

[Midnight Special]

...Well said John. It all boils down to (our) intent and (being at the) right place at the right time.

And regardless of the conditions imposed on our opinions here; the personal value that comes with ownership plays a major role in how those prices are set and how much we will ultimately pay...

 

[PNewitt]

Well, to add to the confusion, it seems that instead of "a" market value we have to deal with multiple markets. For example, any given CS will be likely be valued at one level by the buyers on e-bay, a different level by informed private parties (like most of us in the forum), and still differently by auction house collectors. So, maybe we can't really get any more precise than the NADA guide, with the understanding that they are retail prices that assume a certain amount of dealer prep, and include auction sales in their calculations. While that puts their prices in the third category listed above, that market is a little less volatile than the private party markets, because the condition of the cars is more consistent and you don't see "must sell" sellers.

I think that it's very common in the collector car market to have owners who are very sentimental about their car--and--others who are looking to make a quick buck. I sometimes watch auctions on TV with some distain in how these cars are bought and sold like cattle. It's not so much the cars being sold, but the memories that these cars hold. It's about who can own the memories, and appreciate the ownership (and be able to say " I have it and you'd don't"--which I feel is petty).

For what it's worth..if a buyer gets a '67 GT-500 at auction, yes, they own the car, but they will never have the (intangible) 40 years of history that the original owner got to experience. Some things are just not possible to own--at any price.

I think that if we can set some sort of standard of value, and add a peak value on it, it will act as a starting point, adjusted for a variety of reasons, including sentimental value, part of the country, demand, history, etc...

These are ALL legit variables. But--we should have some values that are target amounts that we can work from--for all these reasons.

Paul N.

 

[rvrtrash]

I would be willing to bet that most cars at auction aren't from original owners. As I recall, it used to be pretty common to buy a new car every year or two-back when build quality wasn't the highest priority and the warrenty was 12 months/12,000 miles. I also prefer to believe that a lot of buyers are trying to rekindle a memory, not buy someone elses. I know I've bought cars, and still seek cars, because I used to have one and have fond memories of those times. I guess I just prefer to believe the best of people, not assume the worst.

Steve

 

[nates68]

I Turned Down $35,000. At A Show Last Summer,not That I Thought My Car Was Worth More ,but Iv Owned Her For Over 18yrs,and Put Lots Of Love Into Her Resteration.i Insured It For $45,000. (grundy)
I Coundnt Replace It For $35,000. Its Too Much Fun Owning One Of These Cars.
Nates68

 

[RedGTvert]

Paul,

So what are the 428's worth? I think I overpaid a lot for mine, but just curious what you thought they are worth?

Scott

There was a LIme Gold coupe on Ebay last month that got up to $68K, but the seller pulled it off because he listed without reserve by accident and could not change because there was a bid on it when he noticed.

He was wanting $75K for the car. My gut says he would have gotten $70-71K. Very original car, two build sheets, dealer invoice, window sticker. Darn near anything you would want.

Contrary to logical thinking, when it comes to coupes, the 68.5CJ's can compete value-wids to a FB. They are so frigging rare, that it actually makes it desirable. I would give my left one for a CJ coupe.

 

[John McGilvary]

There was a LIme Gold coupe on Ebay last month that got up to $68K, but the seller pulled it off because he listed without reserve by accident and could not change because there was a bid on it when he noticed.

He was wanting $75K for the car. My gut says he would have gotten $70-71K. Very original car, two build sheets, dealer invoice, window sticker. Darn near anything you would want.

Contrary to logical thinking, when it comes to coupes, the 68.5CJ's can compete value-wids to a FB. They are so frigging rare, that it actually makes it desirable. I would give my left one for a CJ coupe.

I love my CS/CJ, but its not worth my left one or the right one.

John